Even before the Gorakhnath temple in Gorakhpur, Uttar Pradesh, sowed the seeds for it political base, craft and weaving clusters had set their foot around its main gate.
“There used to be a huge weaving community up to 3 km around the temple. When I began my research on this region, I found only two weavers after several hours of walking around the temple,” says Richa Dubey, founder of 22.2 Accessories, an online fashion accessories brand that has been providing design intervention to weavers and craftsmen across the country. “The two weavers said they were making bedsheets and their fellow weavers have migrated.”
In her upcoming series Varakh, Richa worked with wood artisans from Varanasi and Gorakhpur to create jewellery and home accessories. Inspired by the wooden toys of Uttar Pradesh, Varakh is a riot of playful colours made using mango and gular wood. “There are a few woodwork artisans in Gorakhpur and Varanasi. But most of them only create products such as sindoor boxes, wooden toys, pooja décor and so forth, which sell on a seasonal basis. It’s their livelihood, and they don’t have the opportunity to experiment with design or product ranges. That’s where we come in,” says the graduate of National Institute of Fashion Technology.
Richa and her team have been working on the Varakh series for close to two years now. “Sometimes, we meet 10 weavers or craftsmen, but only two finally hear us out and decide to take our design input,” she says. She creates prototypes from her studio in Bengaluru, sends them to the artisans for them to create similar pieces. “It takes time and effort to build partnerships.
It’s a marriage of aesthetics, so friction is unavoidable in initial phases. Sometimes artisans are not open to trying new ideas,” says the 39-year-old designer. “Once they establish that trust, they bond with you and give their 100 per cent. There are many more craft clusters, especially in eastern Uttar Pradesh, that require support.”
As a first rule, Richa believes in procuring locally sourced raw materials for her designs. “We source material, whether it’s wood, fabric or beads from their place of origin. This allows us to support the local economy and build a stronger relationship with the weavers and craftsmen,” says Richa, who worked for an Indo-Finnish company that supports international brands such as Calvin Klein before starting out on her own.
The next line of products is being planned and she will be working with the carpet weavers of Mirzapur and Bhadohi, and with the Meenakari silversmiths in the region. Every quarter she takes a break from her studio and travels alone to interact with villagers. “Everyone is willing to talk, and each has a story and opinion on anything, from Indian politics to food. But you need to spend time and break the ice. Once you do, you establish a bond for life,” she says.