All great art expands through passing the baton of inheritance. Fashion is no different. A group of second-generation fashion entrepreneurs such as Ankur Modi, son of Anju Modi; Meera and Muzaffar Ali’s daughter Sama; and Ritu Kumar’s son Amrish are pushing the envelope by creating new idioms in style with substance.
There are umpteen instances in Indian fashion where the next generation takes a leaf out of their parent’s book to carve a niche for themselves. Last week, Best Supporting Actress Allison Janney stunned all at the BAFTAs with her two-toned gown designed by India-born fashion designer Bibhu Mohapatra, who credits his mother for instilling a love for sewing in him. “My mother taught me how to sew when I was 14 years old in India. I feel blessed,” he said.
Anju Modi proudly endorses the contemporary design aesthetics of her son. Ekaya, the famous sari studio in Delhi, has also set shop in Hyderabad and Bharat Shah, the owner, beams as he watches daughter Palak, Ekaya’s CEO, soar in the field. Nikhita Tandon was most strengthened by the confidence that mother Reynu instilled in her with the thought that creativity is wealth.But expectations are also immense. Ask Fashion Design Council of India director Sunil Sethi and he would agree even as his daughter Tanira takes gradual but steady steps to make her mark.
Meera and Muzaffar Ali are of the opinion that it is up to the parents to hone the child’s knack in the art of expressing oneself in a medium using the suitable aesthetics. Their daughter Sama grew up in this very infectious environment and was able to channelise it from an early age. On the same lines, when Amrish decided to launch Label, many would still refer to him as Ritu Kumar’s son. But slowly and steadily he spearheaded a positive shift in the business.
There are many such parent-child duos in fashion that have proved time and again that one inspires the other in unique ways. The ideologies could be a tad divorced but the culmination and confluence of ideas make them such a joy to watch and take note of.
Meera, Muzaffar and Sama Ali
From the beginning, Meera and Muzaffar Ali’s daughter, Sama, had shown an interest in sketching and all of her father’s sketch books were scribbled with her doodles. “We didn’t have to think beyond that,” recalls the husband-wife duo of the label Kotwara. It was a matter of time when they would rope Sama into Kotwara. Today the youngster is the chief designer, bringing in a modern and youthful appeal into the label, known for its bent towards traditional Lucknawi crafts, techniques and look. “The aesthetics are similar but the interpretation is different. I discuss my ideas with them before anyone else,” quips Sama, adding, “Having studied in Europe I have been deeply influenced by that culture. I always try to bring that into Kotwara’s heritage style, and I think it’s evolving slowly.”
FAMILY FABRIC
Sama did think of getting into films innumerable times but eventually the head designer at Kotwara decided against it. At Kotwara this year, the look of the clothes is going to be more fresh, youthful and light-hearted while keeping the essence of the label and core values of craftsmanship alive.
Sunil and Tanira Sethi
Sunil Sethi is an entrepreneur of design. He not only is the president of the Fashion Design Council of India, but juggles many responsibilities in his field. At the same time, his daughter Tanira is taking gradual but steady steps to make her mark. The expectations from her are immense but she is unfazed. It also is true that though the young designer was immensely influenced by her father, she soon evolved with her own sense of style. “Tanira has a very different approach to work. I would have her be more out there and aggressive. But I also realise that a creative person will only blossom if she is given the space to grow,” says Sunil. “He always taught us that there is no short-cut to success,” says Tanira.
FAMILY FABRIC
Apart from the art and design that the father-daughter duo overdose on during their travels, Tanira says they both decide the destination keeping in mind the food. If in Delhi, they love trying out new restaurants and indulge themselves with the novel chaats that eateries today are rustling up.
Neeta and Nishka Lulla
Fashion started early for Nishka Lulla, daughter of National Award-winning costume and fashion designer Neeta Lulla. As a child she was indulged by her creative mother with pretty and colourful clothes, which were coordinated with cute accessories like hair-bands, shoes, socks, and bags. “She learnt the word ‘match’ even before she began with ‘mom’ and ‘dad’,” quips Neeta. While Neeta’s ensembles, expertise in creating distinct costumes and decades of quintessential designs have been applauded, daughter Nishka’s youthful, relaxed and edgy patterns embody a perennial charm. In their individual spaces, Neeta’s personal style statement is power dressing that tells a story in an elegant manner, while Nishka’s wardrobe is defined by a more bohemian, eclectic and feminine vibe.
FAMILY FABRIC
It was after four-five years of starting out with her mother that Nishka branched out on her own. Wardrobe essentials for Neeta are well-fitted jackets, vintage and neutral-hued saris, and well-cut blouses. For Nishka, they would be a classic white T-shirt and a buttoned-down shirt, well-fitted skinny jeans, one statement accessory that reflects your personal style, a tutu skirt and a handloom sari.
Anju and Ankur Modi
Celebrated for her eye for traditional wear and ethnicity, Anju Modi has been flooring fashion aficionados with her exquisite design aesthetics, colour palette and rich apparels. Everything is very Indian festive and couture. At the same time, her son Ankur’s creations AM:PM is celebrated for its simple, fuss-free, sharp, and smart apparels. They call it luxury pret and the look is absolutely different from the Anju Modi label. Ankur says it was Anju who encouraged him and Priyanka, his wife, to launch a new label because the design vocabulary was different and each needed to flourish in their own space. Priyanka was armed with a fashion degree from London and had worked with a French label. It was only reasonable that Ankur and she leverage on her international exposure.
FAMILY FABRIC
Though Ankur studied agricultural engineering, he didn’t pursue that further when he found his partner, Priyanka, who had studied fashion in London. Working with his mother could have been an option but he, like Priyanka, wanted to start something of their own.
Bharat and Palak Shah
When Palak Shah returned to India six years ago with a business management degree from King’s College, London, and entered the 70-year-old family wholesale business of handloom saris and fabrics, she admits she was merely shadowing her prolific father, Bharat Shah, a name to reckon with in the textiles and fabrics industry of Varanasi. “He completely handheld me and without his support and encouragement I wouldn’t have been where I am today. He trusted my instincts. I shifted to Delhi when he wanted to create a luxury retail experience here, and we launched Ekaya in 2012,” recalls Palak, the CEO of Ekaya, the sari studio familiarising Delhi’s women with luxury handloom from Varanasi. With the recent opening of Ekaya in Hyderabad, Palak is spreading her wings under the able guidance of her father. Palak follows her father’s advice of not following fads, whether global or national.
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Ekaya recently launched at Hyderabad to tap the southern market. In a city where the Kanjeevarams and silks rule the roost, Palak was confident that aficionados would be able to identify with the aesthetics of the brand despite her father expressing his doubts. Her father relies blindly on her for the fresh perspective she brings in.
Sucheta and Vedika Merh
Sucheta Merh started her label when Vedika, her daughter, was 13 years old. She had to juggle setting up the factory, production, designing, and so on. “Being in the midst of all this, Vedika showed a growing interest in my trade and often accompanied me to the factory. This basic aesthetic forms the base for her label Vedika M,” says Sucheta, whose label is called Earthy Myths. When Sucheta started out, the fashion industry was still an upcoming sector.“The growth that our industry has seen is incredible. The only advice I give Vedika is to stick to her style and design sensibility,” elaborates Sucheta.
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While Sucheta has always been known for her aesthetics for traditional wear with highlights on heritage crafts, weaves and dyeing techniques, Vedika took off from what she learnt from her mother by honing her skills with western silhouettes.
Reynu and Nikhita Tandon
While picking up the traits of patience, time management and honesty at work from her mother Reynu Tandon, what Nikhita was most strengthened by was the confidence that Reynu instilled in her. And if one is able to identify one’s creative streak, it means it’s the beginning of a successful journey, she was taught. Nikhita has made a strong mark as a western wear designer, even though Reynu’s label is strong with its ethnic and traditional aesthetics. So, while the design aesthetics are different, the modus operandi is the same yet again.
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Reynu believes that Nikhita will grow in her own steady pace because she has commendable leadership skills. So, when she expressed her interest about launching an edgy western line, Reynu supported her because she believed she would do well.
Ritu and Amrish Kumar
In a 2008 interview, Amrish Kumar, fashion doyen Ritu Kumar’s son, had shyly admitted that there were plenty who still referred to him as Ritu Kumar’s son and inadvertently the expectations ran high. In his initial days after the launch of Label, the more contemporary and youngish offshoot of the Ritu Kumar Couture house, it was unnerving when spoken of as the presenter of the collection and sufficiently embarrassing to get on the ramp. But after a decade, in the words of his illustrious mother, “He has managed to keep the essence of Ritu Kumar intact while branching out in more diverse manners. This has happened because Amrish had a respect and understanding of textiles, crafts and design.” The pret label is a sharp contrast to what his mother stood for, opulent couture and bridal wear steeped in traditional crafts and embroidery with an emphasis on heritage textiles. For Amrish, who is now the CEO of the Ritu Kumar company, it was important to modernise the brand and cater to a younger, more international consumer.
FAMILY FABRIC
Suggestions and advice keep pouring in from the experienced mom. Happy with the way her son has spearheaded a positive shift in the business, the couturier has always told Amrish to keep the value of the product intact in mind because it is important to tell an honest, sincere story.