The fading glory of Pashmina

With the current interest of international stakeholders in it, Pashmina has delayed its decay.

As a result of modern impetus, Pashmina has travelled from Kashmir to Kenya. Hand woven from delicate weaves of organic threads, it has found a way to warm our hearts. But Kashmir has mostly been in news for the wrong reasons. With the current interest of international stakeholders in it, Pashmina has delayed its decay. Much like all the other hand arts, this one too, has faced its fair share of rejection given the multiplication of power looms.

Frightened by what its future may hold, along with her unconditional love for Pashmina, textile designer Varuna Anand is presenting Heirloom Collection, a selection of shawls that exemplify the artistry she has so earnestly worked towards.

Curator Sara Abdullah Pilot with textile
designer varuna Anand 

According to studies, more than 90 per cent of pashmina in Kashmir are now made by machines. With marginally better profits, more and more artisans leaving their trade for lucrative options.

The other unfortunate fact is that many of these aren’t even registered by the government so their authenticity is questionable.

“History stands testimony to the fact that nothing could eclipse the raw material and techniques used by these highly skilled craftsmen of Kashmir, be it a woven or hand embroidered shawl, Shawls from Kashmir transcend any other imitation or its equivalent.

The delicacy and softness of the Kashmiri shawl have been a focal attraction to this venerated textile from time immemorial,” says Anand, whose exposure to these textiles was heightened after she got married and came to Jammu Kashmir.

She has been living there for nearly two decades, learning the intricacies by working intimately with the artists.

The Kashmiri shawl developed over 300 years ago through four periods of foreign political rule over Kashmir, she tells us.

It was successfully ruled by the Mughals, the Afgans, the Sikhs and the Dogra rulers where each culture brought its unique contribution to the Art of Shawl making in Kashmir. These changing royal patronages show the influence of the various cultures on this art form.

Thankfully, there are still patrons of pashmina who understand its legacy along with collectors supporting the cause of this fine cashmere wool.November from 22-23 at The Imperial Hotel, Janpath; November 24 and 25, Board Room, City Club, DLF Gurgaon.  

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