Plumes of smoke rise in the air as if the entire city is on fire. As we walk through the streets, steam belches through rusty pipes and vents like a monster’s mouth. There is the overpowering smell of sulphur in the air. I am in the hot spring capital of Japan, Beppu, on the island of Kyushu. Beppu is the second-largest source of thermal spring water after Yellowstone National Park in the US. The town has over 2,000 onsens or hot springs, thanks to the volcanic grounds it is located on.
When in Beppu, hell-hop. The first port of call on our list is the Eight Hells of Beppu or jigoku, which consist of hot springs at temperatures ranging from 50 to 99.5 degrees C. The first we visit, Umi Jigoku (Sea Hell), is surrounded by a beautiful landscaped garden and shrine. Umi Jigoku is a boiling cauldron of beautiful cobalt blue thanks to the chemicals present.
Formed by a volcanic eruption hundreds of years ago, the water is 200 metres deep and a scalding 98 degrees C. Hanging in a basket are eggs that cook in the steam. Nearby is a pond with Victoria Amazonica water lilies, as big as a crib; it survives the winter here due to underground pipes that supply volcanic heat. The cause of all this geothermal action is the presence of Japan’s largest active volcano, Mount Aso, 60 miles away.
The next spring we visit is Oniishibozu Jigoku, which has mud bubbles that spout like liquid cement. Since they resemble a monk’s tonsured head, they are called Monks Head Hell. Another hot spring with blood red water is called the Chinoike, thanks to the iron and magnesium-enriched clay. There’s also a geyser called Tornado Hell, which erupts every half an hour. What we really enjoy is the foot bath at Umi Jigoku, relaxing our weary travelers feet, watching other families sit across us with their feet in the water.
The stalls that front the hot spring trail sell jigoku mushi purin (creme caramel custard steamed in the springs), steam boiled eggs and corn. The town also has the Ritsumeikan Asia Pacific University with students from more than 80 countries.
The hot springs of Beppu are also used to heat water, which is delivered by pipes to homes and businesses. The water is also used for agricultural research and in the onsens. If you want to try something with a twist, head to Shoningahama beach, where you’ll be buried in volcanically heated sand, supposed to be good for improving circulation and aches and pains.
The Myoban area has old style huts woven out of bamboo and straw, where a special compound is made from the waters of the hot spring since the Edo era. Called Yu No Hana (flower of the water), this is made in airtight huts using blue coloured clay and steam from the hot springs. The products made include anti-bacterial soap, bath salts, etc.
And when in Beppu, have a dip in an onsen. You can choose the charming, wooden Takegawara Onsen, built in 1880, Beppu’s first public bath. But being a more prudish creature from India, I choose to go to the onsen in my hotel. The lady at the desk on being told that I am onsen virgin, proceeds to explain the etiquette. Undress, leave your belongings (and your modesty) in the locker and take a small hand towel. At first I feel self-conscious, and then I realise no one is watching me. The heat of the baths and then a stint at a wood fire sauna makes for a seriously pleasant experience.
I don my Yukataand slippers provided in the rooms. I feel like a completely new person—relaxed and my skin glowing. I seem to have tapped into the Japanese art of Zen. Also, I am more comfortable in my skin.
getting there
Nearest airport is in Oita, from where shuttle buses run to Beppu J R station. Fukuoka Airport can be also used. The Sonic express train runs twice an hour from Hakata Station in Fukuoka and Kokura Station in Kitakyushu.