Running along the lush green Western Ghats in Karnataka is Malnad—a rain-fed region nourished by rivers and graced by an undulating landscape speckled with bucolic scenery. Sagara in Shimoga district epitomises the essence of the region.
For long, Sagara’s only claim to fame has been its location as the entry point to Jog Falls. With domestic tourism having become fashionable— Ministry of Civil Aviation data shows domestic airlines carried a record 10.6 crore passengers in 2017—Karnataka is on a roll. Since Sagara is surrounded by an astonishing number of rivers, the landscape naturally is refreshingly green and dewy especially after the monsoon. A must visit is the Jog falls.
The Sharavathi River plunges into a gorge nearly 830 feet down, making it one of the highest plunge waterfalls in India. As it falls, the river splits into four distinct tributaries that look like silver girdles. During heavy rains, the four branches merge.
The popularity of Jog makes it crowded and noisy, especially during weekends. It’s better to head to the valley that is home to a wildlife sanctuary, which is thick with evergreen and moist deciduous forests. It has a plenitude of animal life that includes tigers, leopards and the endangered lion-tailed macaque; in addition to other animals found in the forests of the region. The tranquil Tunga River, which is less dramatic than the Sharavathi but equally historic, meanders through the region. About an hour’s drive from Sagara is the Mandagadde Bird Sanctuary, a birdwatcher’s paradise situated along the river. It straddles the Tunga on both sides, with a large part of it running parallel to the road making for a great car ride. The sanctuary harbors a plethora of resident birds and gets astonishingly crowded from July to September as over 5,000 water birds such as egrets, darters and cormorants congregate here.
To intimately experience the spell of water, the place to head to is Honnemaradu, about 25 km to the west of Sagara. The last stretch of road is a winding track that passes through jungle and thick foliage, and suddenly opening up to reveal the burnished waters of the Linganamakki dam on the Sharavathi. Literally a golden lake, its calm surface makes it a haven for water sports enthusiasts. There are many tiny uninhabited islands on the lake for campers who coracle or kayak out to have an overnight adventure.
Less than 10 minutes away from the dam is Heggodu village, which is otherwise known as the cultural heart of Karnataka. Life here revolves around Ninasam, one of the country’s leading dramatic hubs, which provides immersive theatre education. The annual week-long theatre festival at Ninasam attracts crowds from all over.
Almost adjacent to the town is Ikkeri village, built around the magnificent Aghoreshwara Temple. The deity is an avatar of Lord Shiva, and the temple stands on sprawling grounds. Its dark facade and exquisite carvings and sculptures reveal its ancestry. Particularly eye-catching are the ornamental carved doorways, beautiful friezes, 32 female forms and stunning carvings. Sagara is a feast for the eyes of the wanderer within.