CHENNAI:On an evening rush hour, I am standing amid the choked Triplicane high road — a concrete jungle with nothing but chaos, that’s often romanticised as ‘glorious traffic’. Trying to find my way to a famous heritage hotel, a haven for weary travellers from across the globe, I walk across the ‘burqa’ shops and hotels and a few minutes later, I reach ‘Broadlands’ lodging house, located in the quaint Vallabha Agraharam street. Standing in front of the facade of the unassuming building erected in the 19th century, we are welcomed by a board mounted on the wall right above the sit out, which reads: ‘Welcome, Namaste! Traveller!’.
As soon as we enter the building, it seems like we have stepped inside a time capsule — multiple courtyards, shutter windows and doors, stained glasses from a bygone era, antique furniture, crumbling lime plaster walls and a comforting blue, green and pink paint give us a welcoming taste of its old world charm. An enthusiastic staff member welcomes us and while we wait to meet its owner, the friendly banter of the guests keeps us engaged.
Clad in a red t-shirt and jeans, Krishna Rao, the third generation owner of the lodge welcomes us in. “My grandfather was from Andhra but had strong business ties here,” he says. According to Krishna, the building came into the family’s possession as part of a business deal or a bank auction. “Unfortunately, most Indian families have neglected to educate the next generations about their origins and history. So, what I know of this building’s history is very limited,” he explains.
Krishna Rao’s family came into possession of the building in 1951 from the ‘Badsha’ family, post which it was converted into a hostel and later into a lodge. “Law college students used to stay here when it was a hostel. Many even went on to become Supreme Court judges in the 90s and 2000s. This building is now a part of our family’s legacy and we haven’t changed anything here. Everything is intact, just like how we got it. With occasional maintenance and renovation work, the building is in great condition,” he beams as he walks us through the building.
Paintings and photographs from travellers are mounted on walls and as we progress from one courtyard to another (of a total three), it’s evident that the house gets bigger as we go further. “The current entrance of the building used to be the back or servant entrance before we took over the building. The main entrance opens to the big mosque but, we have always kept that closed. That’s why this part of the building is bigger,” he explains as we go up the labyrinth staircase.
“We really don’t know what the original history of the building is. Perhaps the previous owners could shed light on that,” he says, as we stand on the terrace of the building, watching the sunset, with a view of the big mosque, LIC building, Secretariat and Raheja Towers.
As questions of the larger part of the origin of the building shroud us, Krishna Rao offers us the number of a 66-year-old Faiz Badsha Sayeed, a fourth generation descendant of the Badsha family.A couple of phone calls later, along with Krishna, we land at the house of Faiz, in Triplicane. Seated in the hall with a stack of old photographs, a trade book about the family’s Mica business, Faiz along with his elder brother Faud walk us through the history of the building, which once was a link between Madras and Turkey. The now Broadlands was once the ‘Le Consulat de Turquie a Madras’ or the Turkish Consulate in Madras! Faiz narrates, “Our great grandfather Haji Mohammed Badsha Sahib is where the family root began. He was a very ‘normal man’ but, he got lucky when a piece of cloth, possibly indigo dyed, fetched him a fortune from Britain.”
The history of the building which once opened its gates to foreign dignitaries is lost somewhere in time. “We are old and there’s only so much we can recollect about its history. We hope that the next generation takes it up and tries to document more about the heritage of the building and the family,” says Faiz, as he shows us a vintage picture of the consulate in all its glory, taken from the main entrance. “It’s funny that we have never been inside the building. We would like to visit Broadlands someday,” smiles Faiz looking at Krishna as he gives an affirming nod.
TRIVIA
Haji Mohammed Badsha went on to become one the richest businessman in South India and founded the Messrs H Mohammed Badsha Sahib & Co, a leading textile firm. “He was the one who built this building back in the 1800s. It was also his personal residence and my grandfather MA Khuddus Badsha Sahib and his brother Abdul Azeez Badsha Sahib were born in that building,” shares Faiz about his grandfather Khuddus, who was the seventh son of Mohammed Badsha. “He was also one of the founders of the Indian Bank and served as the Vice-Consul at the Turkish Consulate in Madras. This is just the tip of the iceberg Berg, he wore several hats,” beams Faiz.