While most of the humanity heading to Goa is making a bee-line for the beaches and the hypnotising electric atmosphere that surrounds them, it might seem counter-intuitive to head the other direction. And yet, heading east from Panaji into the hinterland and leaving the crowds behind can be immensely satisfying, especially for culture vultures.
Crossing the bridge over the Mandovi and driving along waterlogged paddy fields is an image so far removed from the usual Goan norm that it might seem like crossing into another realm. However, there’s not much time to dwell into this as the road narrows and a few minutes later, the road leads to Velha Goa or Old Goa.
At the heart of it is a large intersection with beautiful ancient buildings, mostly churches, scattered around. But nothing can compare to the dark and brooding presence of the towering structure of the Basilica of Bom Jesus. Located less than 10 km from Panaji, Old Goa is believed to be the original settlement, having been established in the 15th century by the Bahmani kings and subsequently taken over by the Portuguese. It continued to be the hub of activity till mid-18th century when the capital was officially shifted to Panaji. Predictably, the area is replete with magnificent churches and ancient monuments with a distinct European influence.
The most obvious place to start with is the Basilica of Bom Jesus. The impressive three-storey structure with beautiful carved embellishments stands on sprawling grounds. A series of arched doorways, the blackish red stone used in the building and the supporting buttresses give the building a stark beauty. Dedicated to Infant Jesus, the Basilica is more famous as the place that contains the remains of St Francis Xavier, the patron saint of Goa. There is usually an air of serenity that hangs inside the church, the atmosphere thick with history.
Across the road from the Basilica and in complete contrast is the Se Cathedral, which is dedicated to St Catherine. It is an equally magnificent building known for its architectural elegance. The gilded interiors are eye-catching. Adjacent to the Se Cathedral is the Church of St Francis of Assisi, first built in the early 16th century and then rebuilt in the late 17th century. The Tuscan façade, baroque interiors, brilliant gilded altar, and the overall architectural flair tend to awe the visitors.
But away from the main road are some more stunning gems of Old Goa hidden. Round the corner from Se Cathedral is the Convent of St Cajetan, also known as the Church of Our Lady of Divine Providence—by far one of the most stunning of all the edifices in Old Goa. The stark white structure is architecturally beautiful. Modelled on the lines of the famous St Paul’s Cathedral in Rome, the church is almost empty for much of the time, magnifying the air of romance that surrounds the place.
And a few 100 metres down the road is an unusual monument—a beautiful ceremonial arch that covers the entire road. Called the Viceroy’s Arch, it is a regal and mammoth arch dating back to 1599. It was built by Francisco da Gama, great grandson of Vasco da Gama, when he was the Viceroy of the province, signifying the entry point to Goa. It was here that new Viceroys would stop and be given a key to the city, accompanied by pomp and show.
Though there are a handful of other churches, the Church of Our Lady of the Mount is a must-visit. A narrow winding road slopes up a hill on which is located this stark white, moss-grown church. It was built in 1510 by Alfonso de Albuquerque to commemorate his victory over Bijapur Sultan Yusuf Adil Shah, with laterite stone and plastered with white lime. Not only is the whole place incredibly tranquil, it also offers stunning panoramic views dotted by churches. As finales go, this sight, sans any beaches in sight, is an unusual and rather mesmerising one of Goa.