Few pleasures in life are as universally adored as ice cream. Whether it’s rich with sugar or guilt-free, decadently creamy or light and airy, served as a soft swirl or in the dense form of kulfi, ice cream remains an irresistible delight across generations and geographies. In Ice Cream: A Global History, journalist Laura B Weiss takes readers on a deliciously engaging journey through the centuries, exploring how this frozen treat evolved from a rare indulgence to a global cultural icon. With a cast that includes kings, emperors, inventors, and culinary entrepreneurs, the book is a rich tapestry of history, innovation, and sweet tooth satisfaction.
Unlike in many parts of the world, India boasts a longstanding and distinct ice cream heritage. During the Mughal era, rulers delighted in flavored ice brought down from the mountains, an early luxury precursor to frozen desserts. This tradition eventually gave rise to kulfi—a dense, slow-frozen dessert made by cooking down milk and freezing it in conical metal molds, rather than churning it like Western-style ice creams.
Weiss’s compact volume manages to serve up an impressively complete history. From ancient origins to industrial revolutions, she explores how ice cream became democratised in the 19th century through technological innovations and the rise of street vendors. No longer the privilege of the aristocracy, a scoop could now be had by anyone with a few spare coins.
What sets this book apart is its delightful blend of historical narrative and cultural insight. Weiss delves into various methods of ice usage, the science and craft of ice cream-making, and the influential figures who shaped its development. She also highlights ice cream’s place in popular culture—from its symbolic presence in advertising to artistic tributes, including a striking painting by Picasso.
I came away from the book with quite a trove of new insights. For istance, the US boasts the world’s largest ice cream market, trailed by Italy. Ironically, while the Italians pioneered modern ice cream, they struggled to lead its commercial evolution. Their hand-crafted gelato—aptly named from the Italian word for “frozen”—was unmatched in quality but hampered by outdated refrigeration methods. But even the finest American ice creams couldn’t quite rival the richness and texture of true gelato.
Regardless of flavour or form, the humble ice cream cone stands as a global symbol of sweet indulgence. It made its debut in 1904 at the St. Louis World’s Fair, where visitors delighted in wandering the grounds with scoops of ice cream tucked neatly into edible cones. A brilliant invention, the cone has endured as a beloved partner to ice cream ever since. Fun fact: it takes roughly 50 licks to finish off a single scoop—but just a few quick bites to devour the cakey cone it rests in.
The book is filled with fascinating tidbits—from the whimsical origin of the banana split to the birth of the legendary ice cream sundae. But while rich in anecdotes, it stops short of being a truly global history. Its focus remains largely on the US, Europe, the Middle East, and parts of Asia. Most puzzling is the complete omission of Africa—a continent where sweltering temperatures make ice cream a natural delight. Why the silence on African contributions? Dishes like Kenya’s elegant Coupe Mount Kenya or South Africa’s vibrant Tapi Tapi Ice Cream deserve a place in the narrative. Clearly, Africa, too, has its own sweet story to tell.
Enriched with illustrations, photographs, and even recipes, it is more than just a chronicle. A must-read for food lovers, history buffs, or anyone who’s ever delighted in the simple joy of a frozen scoop on a hot day.