Anavila Misra is a crusader for the sari. With her label, Anavila, she can be credited not just for making linen saris wardrobe-friendly, but also for inspiring urban Indians to include saris in their everyday wardrobe. The award-winning designer is known for her love for linen and liberal use of pastel colours with subtle hints of gold or silver zari embroidery. Over the years, Anavila has experimented not just with linen, but has also used zari borders on jamdani and khatwa weaves. This festive season, the renowned designer has a very special collection. It is titled Morakasi and is inspired by the ancient Shekhawati havelis (palaces) in Rajasthan. Morkasi is the name given to the fresco paintings found in the region. We speak to the designer about the new collection. Excerpts:
Tell us about the collection?
The collection is an ode to our culture and heritage. So there is an influence of floral prints and a mix of colours. When one enters the corridors of a Shekhawati haveli, one can see that the walls have pastel colours and floral prints. But there are also places where one can find vibrant festive colours. Their palaces depict a strong harmony of pastel and bright colours. This is exactly what you find with Morakasi. We brought back the gold and silver embellishments to our zari and we used satin for some sheen in the blouses and trousers. We also have reversible jackets, which are fully gold, but when turned inside out, have floral designs. Our saris offer a vibrant take on botanical prints, which can also be seen in the reversible jacket and the peekaboo underskirts.
What was the research that went into this collection?
Since the collection was conceptualised in the lockdown, we couldn’t physically visit the villages in Rajasthan. But, we spent a lot of time researching online about the havelis and the culture. We have used shades such as pevari (yellow), khariya (white) and hansraj (red). When I had a chat with the painters in Shekhawat, this is what they called the colours in their regional language. Most of their colours are derived from flower names. So, I brought back this information and included it in my collection. And when the situation got better, we actually visited the havelis and did the photoshoot.
Your favourite from this collection?
The linen check saris are my most prized drapes in the Morakasi edit. They can be paired with hanging chandelier earrings to make your look more glamorous and stylish.