Weaving a new silk route

Bengaluru-based brands are trying to bring Kanjeevaram silks to global audiences with a contemporary take on the classic fabric.
Designs by Colorsootra
Designs by Colorsootra

Kanjeevaram silk saris are said to be woven by the descendants of Sage Markanda, a master weaver of the gods, who settled down in Kancheepuram, Tamil Nadu around 400 years ago. This story may be just folklore but it can’t be denied that these creations have a fan following in India.

And now, city-based brands are aiming higher, as they try to bring Southern silks, especially Kanjeevaram, to a global audience. Take, for instance, Neeta Rajendran, CEO of Sakhi - By Chandras, who says, "People's taste in saris are evolving. Though they love their traditional print, they want it to be more wearable."

This prompted Rajendran to come up with a contemporary version of this silk with Kalamkari and cut work. "I have also come up with sari dresses, which look like a gown and doesn’t need any draping," she explains. 

Like her, sister-duo Rajashree Karthik and Jayashree Karthik, founders of Colorsootra, are on a similar mission. "Kanjeevaram saris are elegant and we have always seen our mothers and grandmothers carrying it with so much grace. It's high time that this Southern silk is more exposed to a global audience," says Jayashree, adding that Kanjeevaram silk is more than its zari work.

"We are also working on creating Kanjeevaram handloom fabrics in silk and cotton, which appeal to international clients, since today’s preference is lighter weight fabrics,' she says. 

Pavithra Muddaya, co-founder of Vimor, a boutique saree store, believes though Kanjeevaram silks have a loyal clientle of saree wearers across the globe, it has the potential to reach an even bigger audience. "I believe creating yardage woven using silk motifs as it will help promote it to a global audience. We have introduced changes in the construction  and yarn fibres in silk to achieve a better drape, besides experimenting with different fibres and techniques," says Muddaya.

Fashion designer Latha Puttanna, whose designs are mostly based on Kanjeevarm silks, says, “So instead of bold colours, which are our traditionally Indian, I go for pastel colours like powder blue and mauve,” says Puttanna, who has added silk skirts and dresses to her designs to appeal to a wider audience. 

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The New Indian Express
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