What’s Haute, What’s Nought

Go big or go home was the message at this year’s FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week which focussed on frills and flounces, prints and patterns, shine and shimmer
Image used for representational purpose only. (Photo |IANS).
Image used for representational purpose only. (Photo |IANS).

Every sartorial season, an unspoken message passes through the close-knit fashion fraternity. Proverbial gavels call to order the trends of the times, and fashion designers—signature styles notwithstanding—create pieces that fall within the confines of those trends. The recent FDCI x Lakme Fashion Week 2022, held in its first physical iteration in two years, was no different. Keen to know what was trending? Here’s a round-up of the trends that stood out at this year’s runway.

Style and Sustainability: In 2022, a label runs the risk of being boycotted if it doesn’t adhere to sustainable practices. Fortunately, most, if not all, Indian designers have adopted eco-friendly fabrics and methods for their collections. Whether it was JJ Valaya’s use of silk alternative Tencel Luxe for his new bridge-to-luxury line ‘JJV,’ Varun Bahl’s upcycled embroidery, or the use of Khadi by multiple designers including Mossi—the first international one to showcase at an Indian fashion week; it is clear that being ‘eco-friendly’ is no longer mere lip service.

Cut-outs to add Pizzazz: ‘Sexy’ was the operative word for many collections, and the easiest way to add a dash of glamour without going over the top, was through strategically placed cut-outs. Suneet Varma put them on sleeves, Shivan & Narresh’s designs indulged in revealing necklines offset by interesting straps, and Reynu Taandon + Nikhita used them effectively to cinch the waists of their flowy bohemian dresses. However, the most striking of these was Manish Malhotra’s showstopper gown blurring the lines between a plunging back and an exposed waist.

Prints Are In: Celebrating a return to normal life, vibrant prints ruled the roost. They ranged from Satya Paul’s kitschy versions to Two Point Two’s cute ones. Payal Pratap’s elegant iterations to eye-catching ones from Huemn. Ashish N Soni styled printed pants with crisp white kurtas and jackets for an alluring effect, while Ranna Gill used them on understated lehengas.

A Play on Volume: As far as shapes and silhouettes go, the message is loud and clear—go big or go home. Flounces, frills, bell-shaped sleeves, layers of tassels, and flowy garments were spotted in various avatars. These included Shantanu & Nikhil’s dark and sexy bomber jackets, Esha Amiin’s ‘deconstructed geometrical’ pants and dresses, and the feather-laden mini dresses by Pankaj & Nidhi.

Sequins for Old World Glamour: Nothing quite spells old-world glamour like a dash of sequins. This was certainly evident in the liberal use of the embellishment by many designers who showcased their collections.

Patterned crystals lit up Falguni & Shane Peacock’s futuristic designs, subtle same-color sequins enriched the evening wear of Tarun Tahiliani, Siddartha Tytler’s intricate beadwork had a multi-dimensional effect, and Ananya Modi Jain’s athleisure was elevated with the use of glitter. All in all, this unobtrusive element made its presence felt throughout the week.

Related Stories

No stories found.

The New Indian Express