Did you know that India is home to a whopping 74 million sheep herded by more than two million herders? In fact, our country ranks third largest in the world in sheep population and seventh in wool production. In spite of these impressive numbers, wool is the only natural fibre India is deficient in and our wool requirements are met largely by imports. Needless to say, this has hurt the indigenous economy of pastoralists with more and more herders choosing to replace the native stock of dual-purpose breeds (which produce both wool and meat) with exotic hairy breeds which produce only meat, are less resilient and prone to diseases. All this has led to a decline in the indigenous sheep numbers coupled with a sharp fall in the production of local wool.
India’s native sheep are found in areas of diverse climatic conditions such as the dry arid regions of Gujarat and Rajasthan, the rocky Deccan plateau and the cold climes of the Himalayas such as Himachal Pradesh, Ladakh, Kashmir and Uttarakhand. Pastoral communities like the Rabaris and Raikas of the west, the Kinnauries, and Changpas in the Himalayas, and the Dhangars, Kurumas and Kurubas of the Deccan Plateau rear indigenous sheep amidst several challenges like vagaries of weather, change in crop patterns, decreasing grazing land and the ever-depleting water bodies.
However, the indigenous wool provided by these sheep is versatile and diverse and includes the fine, soft wool of the Himalayas, to the coarse wool of the Deccan and semi-arid west. The increasingly elusive indigenous wool is the key raw material for millions of wool artisans and craftsmen who have mastered the art of working with this local fibre. Needless to say, the number of such craftsmen is also fast declining.
This is where the Desi Oon story comes into play. The Centre for Pastoralism (CfP), a Sahjeevan initiative, has partnered with various grassroot organisations working towards preserving native breeds and protecting wool economies to form the Desi Oon Initiative. The primary objective is to create a supportive environment for pastoralists and their livelihoods. Anchored by CfP, the collaborative works with stakeholders like pastoralists, artisans, activists and designers to promote indigenous wool and wool craft.
As part of this initiative, they conduct events and exhibitions, as well as collaborate with external research organisations, government bodies and entrepreneurs to build a collective of knowledge while promoting and creating an ecosystem for indigenous wool crafts. “While we try and reposition indigenous wool in the regional, national and global markets, we need to reimagine ways by which we can reinvigorate closed-loop economies, localise the production and consumption of wool, and rekindle the texture of relationship that still lingers between pastoralists and wool artisans,” says Sushma Iyengar, the co-founder of CfP and the mentor for the Desi Oon Initiative.
The forum holds online exhibitions in collaboration with several noted grassroots organisations from across the country. On offer are a plethora of products ranging from clothing to accessories and home décor products from all the wool-producing regions. Rajasthan and Gujarat are represented by Rangsutra which makes home textiles and apparel. Kashmiri wool is showcased by Khamir’s shawls, jackets and carpets. The Deccan region is taken care of by the woollen shoes made by Earthen Tunes.
The Himalayan region presents mitts and leg-warmers from the social enterprise Aana Jana, headed by textile researcher Jen Hoover. Then there are Gaddi wool stoles by Kullvi Whims, a self-help women’s group from the Kullu Valley. Almora-based design studio Peoli, makes luxurious jackets and overcoats. Another Uttarakhandi organisation, Avani, makes hand-woven textiles using natural yarns and plant-based dyes. There’s an all-women’s group, too called The Colour Caravan that makes slow fashion and lifestyle products using knitting and crochet. All these products are available through the social media handles and websites of the organisations mentioned above.
“India is home to an amazing diversity of native wool fibres and wool crafts. It is a precious cultural asset, and we feel privileged to be able to showcase this through the various items in our collection,” says Shouryamoy Das, team member, Desi Oon Initiative.
Apart from lifestyle products, the collaborative is also working towards building technologies that will aid small-scale production systems. It is currently exploring the potential of using indigenous wool as a building insulation material as well as a biofertiliser.
The forum holds online exhibitions in collaboration with several noted grassroots organisations from across the country. On offer are a plethora of products ranging from clothing to accessories and home décor products.