The world of Indian haute couture has long been dominated by women, especially brides. But now, men seem to be breaking that glass ceiling in a big, sartorial punch. It started with grooms wanting to be groomed too, and has now extended to the millennial male who has a keen sense of style and wants to look every bit as fashionable as his chic other half.
Gone are the days when men would stick to safe and neutral shades. Today, they’re no longer afraid to flaunt bold hues and bright florals. “Gone also are the days when mothers and wives would shop for their sons and husbands,” says Tarun Tahiliani, who until a few years ago mainly made clothes for women. The celebrated designer launched his menswear label, Tasva, in 2021. “Just like women, men today also want to look and feel good in clothes that complement their build and personality,” he adds.
The importance of being well turned-out is no longer lost on today’s men, says Tahiliani, which is why they are now dressing up for dinners, pujas, weddings, and even work. We have the tribe of dapper men in sports, movies and, of course, social media influencers to thank. According to the designer, men now demand different silhouettes, movements, and fabrics, and also give a lot of importance to tailoring as they have grown up wearing great brands with well-fitting clothes.
Tahiliani’s menswear takes cues from all of the above. His sherwanis, mostly in blacks, ivories, and pastels, have intricate embroidery showcasing his mastery in blending heritage craftsmanship such as chikankari and zardosi with modern sensibilities. The designer plays with textures and cuts to create bandhgalas that strike a perfect balance between classic and contemporary. There are also the timeless three-piece suits as well as single-breasted blazers.
On the more casual side are Nehru and bomber jackets that can be paired with T-shirts, shirts, short or long kurtas, and can be carried from day to night.
Whether formal or casual, the emphasis is always on good tailoring and limited layering. The sherwani with a cummerbund, for instance, is designed to enhance the wearer’s physique. A complete garment in itself, but it can also be accessorised with a subtly embroidered shawl or dupatta. “Indian men are looking fantastic in ethnic clothes, much better than they ever have,” he says, adding, “They like flaunting traditional garments now also because the country is gaining respect in the world.”
It has, however, taken many decades for men’s fashion to get here. In the 60s, there were no Western brands in the country and most men wore kurtas and even dhotis. From the 70s, one could clearly see the influence of Bollywood creeping in when bell bottoms became all the rage. But it was still simple with subtle colours and basic three-piece suits being the norm whether in the boardroom or at a wedding. “In the 80s, when India started opening up, you could see a clear influence of Western fashion in India. Jeans were gaining popularity, yet, it was still largely a tailoring market,” he recalls.
The 90s too were limited to shirts and T-shirts by Western brands for casuals and bandhgalas for formals. It was only in the 2000s that men’s fashion started becoming trendy. People were travelling abroad and the internet exposed young men to global fashion. Along with Western clothes, the pride in Indian silhouettes and craftsmanship was also revived, thanks to Bollywood and big Indian designer brands. Kurtas, bandis, sherwani, and dhotis all made a comeback in stylish, sleek avatars. Men no longer wanted to suit up for a wedding. They would much rather don a dhoti or sport a sherwani.
It is this trend that has snowballed into a fashion movement, going from strength to strength. “But now there is an emphasis on comfort and convenience. Accordingly, we’re making ethnic bottomwear with zippers. Why struggle with a nada at all?” he asks.
The designer also predicts that in the future, men’s fashion, especially couture, will become even dressier, perhaps as ostentatious as bridal wear. One look at his opulent South Mumbai store that opened a few months ago, and you know exactly what he means. Exuding elegance, style, and substance, it has everything a fashionable man could ask for. And then some.