The word kiniho means ‘these are the ones’ in Meghalaya’s local Bhoi language, and is a way of redirecting one’s attention to what is already in front of them. This is the credo of Kiniho, a clothing line by designer Iba Mallai, whose work is inspired by what lies in front of her––the culture of her home and the dyeing and weaving traditions of the community she grew up in.
Not just that, the Shillong-based designer works exclusively with naturally dyed Eri silk, a fabric where silkworms are not killed to obtain the threads. It has short fibres, which are more breathable and give the fabric a subtle sheen. Therefore, it has the lustre of silk but the feel of soft cotton, as well as unique thermal properties making it cool in summer and warm in winter, making it suitable for year-round wear.
Reconnecting with her roots led her to discover Eri silk seven years ago. “I was far away from home when I was looking for a fabric that supported my ecologically responsible business approach. It was my mother’s persistent phone calls persuading me to return that made me realise what I was looking for was there waiting for me,” recalls Mallai.
The 37-year-old then reached out to members of her own community of weavers in Ribhoi district, who had been practising Eri silk weaving for generations.“A modern approach to traditional textile using old techniques of weaving and colour blending became the core philosophy of the label,” she says.
Mallai’s collections include women’s clothing such as dresses, tops and trousers, as well as men’s shirts, shawls, stoles, scarves and jainsem (Khasi attire), all made in Eri silk yarn that is given colour with natural dyes made from roots, leaves and flowers. The designer also uses pleating, simple hand embroidery and crochet for detailing. Not just that, in one of her collections, ‘Sier Lapalang,’ she used Khneng embroidery, a dying indigenous art form. “We created contemporary motifs using the technique and blended them into our designs,” she adds.
Looking ahead, the plan is to expand not only across the country, but also outside. “This will help us grow as a brand, and also help our community of weavers to flourish and help sustain the heritage craft,” she says.