Playing to the African beat: Indian couturiers fashion fusion wear
There’s a good reason why David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore are known as masters of minimalism. The Delhi-based couturiers maintain a design language that is modern and clutter-free, showing strong respect for material, form and craft. In their experience of more than 30 years, their label often represents relevant narratives that blend Indian heritage with global narratives. The latest edition of their autumn-winter 2024 collection Parallel Universe is titled ‘Off Beat’ and takes this philosophy a step forward.
Over the years, travel has been a significant source of inspiration for their collections. In their latest show, the enchanting music and rhythmic beauty of Africa that defines the continent’s soundscape is their muse. Off Beat features innovative experiments with bandhani, reminiscent of the grooves of vinyl records, and interpretations of kente, an exquisite textile from Ghana known for its intricate patterns and vibrant colours.
The symmetry and repetition inherent in these textiles echo the complex rhythms and melodies found in African music, creating a harmonious blend of sound and style.
“Africa’s cultural and artistic legacy has been on our minds for years. Its unique textiles and music offered a compelling foundation for this edit,” says Thakore, adding, “The layered harmonies, and dynamic energy of African soundscapes are translated into intricate patterns, bold textures, and rhythmic structures within the designs.
The collection reimagines this auditory richness into a visual and textural narrative, celebrating the vibrancy of African artistry.”
The fluidity of the music and rhythms is interwoven with the choice of materials for the collection, which includes silks, seersucker, and poplin, creating garments that move effortlessly.
“The bold colour palette and the geometric patterns reflect the visual energy of African culture, while the silhouettes echo the complexity and structure of musical compositions, translating sound into style,” says Abraham.
Abraham & Thakore’s ability to create pieces that combine elegance with functionality sits at the core of this collection. For women, there are structured jackets, fluid dresses, and co-ord sets, and for men, there are tailored bandhgalas, modern kurtas, and shirts, which have been designed keeping travel and ease of movement in mind.
While distant Africa and its enchanting melodies are be the inspiration, at the heart of ‘Off Beat’ is India and its sumptuous heritage. Each piece is crafted using iconic textiles and techniques—ikat, bandhani, tanchoi, and crewel embroidery—imbued with a rhythmic play of form and colour.
“These traditional crafts are reinterpreted in a contemporary way. Hence the collection is deeply rooted in Indian craftsmanship while celebrating a global vibe,” says Thakore, adding that the collection is targeted at global citizens who appreciate cultural fusion, slow fashion, and fine craftsmanship.
Established in 1992, Abraham & Thakore started their fashion journey with a small collection of scarves and kimonos in double ikat but owe their success to serendipity: their first client turned out to be The Conran Shop in London—a furnishings-to home accessories company.
“The buyer placed a small order of our kimonos and scarves which helped us launch the brand in London in stores such as Liberty, Designers Guild and Harrods among others,” recalls Abraham. Other milestones followed—including Browns (London) deciding to represent them and distribute their fashion collection at high-end stores like 10 Corso Como in Italy.
Their first collection at Selfridges did so well that reorders followed. Victoria & Albert Museum in London used their houndstooth ikat sari as the opening exhibit at the ‘Fabric of India Exhibition,’ in 2015.
The designers, whose low-key personalities echo their subtle aesthetics believe that they have stayed relevant by continuously innovating, while remaining authentic to their roots.
Former supermodel Sheetal Mallar says, “When I think of Abraham & Thakore, I think of how beautifully they recycle and upcycle textile, turning waste into glamour.” Thakore is reminded of their spring-summer ’25 collection, Finding Beauty, which they showed at Lakme Fashion Week 2024, in which transformed discarded materials were transformed into haute couture. Internationalists with Indian mojo would be the best description of this power duo of Indian fashion and couture.
Their collaboration with Mangla Bai Marawi, a godna artist from the Baiga tribes of Northern and Central India, highlighted India’s indigenous crafts in a modern context. Off Beat, too, treads the same path.
“The layered harmonies, and dynamic energy of African soundscapes are translated into intricate patterns, bold textures, and rhythmic structures within the designs.”
Rakesh Thakore, Designer
