Maestro’s salute to the Mexican spirit
A few chilly nights ago in the capital, the air was rife with the anticipation of something spectacular about to unravel. Guests clinked glasses of tequila even as they stole glances at the stunning glasshouse venue of The Upper House by Tivoli at Chattarpur. Soon enough, the sound of drums took over and models started sashaying down the circular ramp in sensual black gowns and dresses with ornate headpieces.
Black gave way to gleaming golds, flirty florals and pretty pastels. The loud and spontaneous applause that followed when designer Suneet Varma came on stage to take a bow, was a nod to the respect that he commands for his contribution to the Indian fashion industry.
Varma’s Quetzalli Collection was launched in collaboration with PATRÓN Tequila and was inspired by a visit to the brand’s Hacienda in Jalisco, Mexico, where the premium tequila is handcrafted and bottled. “My visit was eye-opening. It is a place that embodies craftsmanship, artistry, and passion. From the bold colours of the landscape to the intricate patterns in their art and textiles, I found endless inspiration. The collection is my tribute to the Mexican spirit of innovation and timeless beauty,” says the ace couturier.
Travel, he says, has always served as a muse for him. “It allows me to immerse myself in new cultures, absorb their aesthetics, and translate that into my work,” he shares.
The intricate lacework and sheer fabrics in this collection echo the delicate craftsmanship found in traditional Mexican designs, while the silhouettes are fluid and modern, catering to today’s versatile wardrobes. The colour palette, too, reflects the vibrancy of Mexico—think earthy tones juxtaposed with bold, rich hues.
And yet, the collection is still very Indian at heart. “At its core, Quetzalli is deeply rooted in Indian craftsmanship. The attention to detail, the hand-finished techniques, and the ethos of celebrating heritage are unmistakably Indian. While the Mexican influence provides a refreshing perspective in terms of aesthetics and themes, the collection maintains an Indian identity through its craftsmanship and the way it celebrates femininity and elegance,” he adds.
Targeted at the modern woman who values timeless style but isn’t afraid to experiment with bold and contemporary elements, the collection offers a range of versatile pieces, from intricately designed lace blouses to sheer maxi skirts and chic separates.
“For instance, a sheer lace top paired with wide-leg trousers can be styled casually for a day outing with minimal accessories. The same piece, when paired with statement jewellery and a dramatic cape, transforms into a sophisticated evening ensemble,” he states.
True to the Varma brand, which has stood for fantasy, sexy sophistication and unadulterated femininity for more than three decades, this collection is also reminiscent of the designer’s penchant for constantly challenging himself. “I’ve always embraced new inspirations, whether collaborations with global brands like Judith Leiber and PATRÓN or designing collections that resonate with today’s fashion sensibilities,” he says.
Varma’s fashion journey began in 1986 post his fashion design degree from Europe and first work association with renowned couturier Yves Saint Laurent in Paris. On the way, he’s added many feathers to his hat and showcased Indian craftsmanship on global platforms. “Each milestone has been a celebration of creativity and passion.
Since 2007, I have had the honour of working with BMW on a variety of events, agency launches, and foundation projects. I am grateful to be the only international designer to have collaborated with Judith Leiber, the iconic brand known for its bejewelled handbags,” he shares.
The designer’s ‘Suneet Varma for Judith Leiber’ minaudieres are now available in select boutiques worldwide. Over the past decade, he has worked extensively with Swarovski on clothing and interior projects, contributing to trend forecasts for their global collections. His wedding designs with Swarovski were featured in the book Unbridled, which was launched in Paris in 2009. Quetzalli stands out as a recent highlight—it is not just a collection but a celebration of two rich cultures coming together.