Supriya Gupta, the founder of Neitri, a Delhi-based brand specialising in Banarasi weaves, is not merely a creator of artisanal clothing; she is a guardian of culture, especially in an industry that’s always focused on the next big trend. Her latest body of work—a wedding special featuring handloom saris, lehengas, drape saris and jumpsuits—is testimony of her commitment towards the preservation of textile traditions.
At the heart of this pursuit lies the resuscitation of jangla, one of the oldest weaving techniques from Banaras, which involves a mesh-like design with vegetation motifs, made by weaving extra weft threads. “Rarely seen today, the jangla is a long neglected treasure. Our saris pay tribute to this forgotten gem,” she says, adding, “We also revived the allure of the Ganga Jamuna dual tone weaving method (coming together of contrasting elements).”
By launching the collection during the wedding season, Gupta wanted to put the spotlight back on the beauty of traditional textiles, given the growing inclination towards contemporary fabrics for the trousseau. “Inspired from the enchanting Lal Bagh, a sprawling garden in South Bengaluru, the weaves are rendered in polka, lotus, flowers, and butterfly motifs, on a canvas of both pastel and bright hues,” she says.
The Nithya-Tara sari made from Chiniya silk, similar to katan silk in lustre. The moss green sari adorned with peach-hued motifs in zari exudes a luxurious look. The Nithya-Vijya sari in a combination of vibrant yellow and pastels, features a rangkat pattern made with a crossover of yarns.
This organza sari with a border highlighted in a dark colour and gold floral motifs comes with a rich silk pallu. The Nithya-Rattna sari in a resplendent magenta and elaborate kadhua jaal work incorporates large motifs, and tassels on the pallu. “The Nithya-Jodha sari is a true masterpiece in red katan silk with golden motifs and delicate bead-work tassels on the pallu. Another such piece is the Nithya-Kamya sari made in Russian violet katan silk with rich golden zari motifs in jaal style. The fine silk makes the sari easy to drape as well,” says Gupta.
While dedicated to preserving traditional methods, the founder has also incorporated Western-inspired cuts and styles to appeal to a younger demographic. These have been imagined through kaftan sets, coord sets and jumpsuits. “Integrating modern elements into timeless styles, whether through the selection of colours like pastel shades, a relatively newer trend in traditional saris, or the addition of embellishments such as beads, pearls and tassels, has not only provided fresh opportunities for us as creators, but also sparked renewed interest in these garments,” she says.
Despite setbacks such as the lack of economic viability for Indian weaves, Gupta perseveres to keep the tradition alive. “It’s tough sometimes, especially the inundation of counterfeit products that dilute trust in authentic Banarasi weavers who face grave exploitation,” she says. There are, however, individuals like her, who champion the time-honoured craft by safeguarding, promoting and showcasing its intrinsic value, one weave at a time.