The traditional and the suave
Fashion today is tradition yesterday. Often seeking inspiration from the past and enhancing it with a futuristic vision, true design reinvents custom with outrageous statements or understated elegance.
The dhoti is having its moment in Indian fashion and retail with Bollywood actors such as Ranbir Kapoor to menswear influencers like Rohit Bose (who has a blog dedicated to the dhoti) flaunting it a style statements.
The dhoti in its traditional, unstitched avatar is making its presence felt like never before - at society weddings, Bollywood parties and traditional festivals. The number of dhoti tutorials surfacing on Instagram and YouTube attests to its timeless appeal.
The new-age dhoti enthusiasts have also rediscovered the various indigenous draping styles synonymous with different regions of India. While some are draping it in the traditional mundu style seen in Kerala, there are many, even among the non-Bengalis, who’ve fallen for the allure of the Bengali draping technique (once mostly seen during festivals like Durga Puja).
Bose shares that among all the drapes he’s tried, the Bengali ‘Mayur Puchha’ (peacock tail) style with its intricate micro pleats holds a special place in his heart.
“Its regal elegance and attention to detail makes it truly unforgettable,” says Bose.
Bollywood, with its penchant for always being tops when it comes to the fashion game, is not far behind from embracing the traditional attire either. At Athiya Shetty’s wedding, father of the bride, Suniel Shetty styled a chikankari kurta with a traditional dhoti by designer Anjul Bhandari. Actor Siddharth too embraced his South Indian roots as he chose to wear a traditional dhoti kurta when he tied the knot with Aditi Rao Hydari.
“In my experience, the dhoti is no longer confined to formal or ceremonial occasions alone; it’s become a versatile statement piece that can be effortlessly styled for a wide array of occasions,” shares Bhandari.
With today’s man seeking sophistication but also looking for ease of wearing and comfort, the beauty of the dhoti lies in its ability to look elegant, yet provide that sense of ease. It is a fluid garment that transcends the boundaries of occasion, and with the right styling, it can be as suited to a festive gathering as it is to a contemporary wedding celebration.
The use of intricate chikankari on dhotis has been a standout feature in many of these sets, as the delicate, hand-embroidered patterns add an element of refinement and artistry that appeals to modern sensibilities.
“A well-crafted dhoti set, especially when paired with a chikankari kurta, is not seen as a one-time wear; it becomes a treasured piece as the timeless nature of the hand-embroidery, coupled with the light, breathable fabrics, makes it an investment in both style and comfort,” she adds.
Designers in the festive menswear space are celebrating the dhoti in its purest form. For instance, designer Rizwan Shaikh of label Nafs prominently features the yardage in indigenous textile in his latest collection.
“Dhoti, in its traditional unstitched style, is making a comeback and how. It is a beautiful symbol of our culture that has stood the test of time. Many Bollywood actors, such as Amitabh Bachchan, Shah Rukh Khan to Ranveer Singh, have been seen wearing dhotis, showcasing how stylish and versatile this classic attire can be,” observes Shaikh.
At Nafs, the designer has customised dhotis twice for Riteish Deshmukh—once for Anant Ambani’s grand wedding and again, for the Bigg Boss Marathi show because the actor wanted to sport a traditional vibe. “It’s great to see people embracing our heritage,” he says.
Apprehensive of how to style this traditional piece of clothing without making it seem too hard? Designers suggest pairing the it with an array of separates—it could be a kurta or a tee, a jacket or a waistcoat. Complete the look with flip-flops, boots or sneakers, depending on the occasion.
Alternatively, one can either hold the end of the dhoti in your hand or tuck it in your jacket pocket and you’re good to go. Last but not the least—wear the dhoti with a sense of pride. After all, it’s not just a piece of clothing but a reminder of your Indian roots.
“The Mayur Puchha’s regal elegance and attention to detail makes it truly unforgettable.” Rohit Bose