Shaping history, one wire at a time
Couturier Rimzim Dadu’s new collection recalls the most glorious time in the history of art. Called Stucco, it harks back to the 17th century, which was marked by Baroque architecture. The new range reimagines the opulent theatrics of the movement, but in textile.
“Stucco refers to a material used in Baroque architecture characterised by ornate and textured surfaces. In the context of the collection, it symbolises the intricate layering of history and modernity, reflecting the meticulous textures and complex patterns of the pieces, which draw inspiration from the style’s grandeur. I drew heavily from its elaborate motifs, and juxtaposed it with sleek and contemporary silhouettes,” says the 38-year-old designer.
To execute her vision, she used metallic textiles and fluid-interlacing techniques, while keeping the overall design modern and wearable. “The approach allows the collection to retain a sense of historical richness while also being relevant to today’s sensibilities,” says Dadu. The Ostrich-feather-inspired outfit, for instance, stands out for its complex and avant-garde feathers. It is crafted using Dadu’s signature cords. She manipulates the traditional cord work by creating them with leatherite, steel and zari. “The thickness of the cord depends on what we are trying to achieve. Our steel wire textile is made with hair-thin—0.45mm—wires. In other cases, thicker zari or chiffon cords are used for a more grunge vibe,” she explains.
The result is an exaggerated yet luxurious body of garments. Take the sculpted cut-out dresses that combine several Baroque-inspired patterns, turning historical motifs into a bold fashion statement. “Through Stucco, I’ve truly indulged in my passion for material experimentation, creating a range of unique pieces conceived through a modern lens. Among these are the orange fringe sari, gunmetal cage, antique gold baroque sari, and the emerald gown, crafted from metallic yarns and steel wires, each reminiscent of Baroque inte riors.
The gold lehenga and fish blouse with a metal skirt that comes with my signature gilded work mirrors Baroque carvings,” she says. Even the striking palette of deep ruby red, antique gold and burnt orange in corset tops, lehengas, sculptural saris, sherwanis and tuxedos, are all in line with Baroque artistry. “These colours help to enhance the interplay of light and shadow, a characteristic that is central to both the Baroque era and my aesthetic,” says Dadu, as she revels in the tunes of renowned Italian composer Antonio Vivaldi, whose music, for her, has now become synonymous with Stucco. Availability: Rimzimdadu.com
