A return to the royal reverie
Time is their muse. Always ready to deep-dive through layers of history, Delhi-based costume designers Rimple and Harpreet Narula have turned to pre-Independence India for their latest collection, Firangi Mahal. It travels back to the 1920s and ‘30s to capture the glamour of a time when Indian and Mughal aesthetics were infused within one another, slowly imbibing the British influences.
The result is a collection of garments where each piece boasts the finest embroidery, highlighting the delicate artistry of Indian motifs and native textiles. The designs incorporate a blend of floral patterns and geometric shapes that reflect the nuanced aesthetics of the era.
The showstoppers of the line are the diaphanous tulle saris. Rendered in soft ivory, champagne, pale pinks and vivid blues, dripping with paillettes, sequins, crystals and beaded blouses, they are
a testament to the long hours and effort that went into their making. Equally admirable is the extensive needle work on the lehengas and shararas, especially on the back and sleeves, recalling what the royals and aristocrats wore in the ‘20s and ‘30s. “We’ve blended quintessential European prints, Mughal inlay work patterns, floral and avian motifs, and art deco elements, layering them to create a harmonious symphony inspired by the past,” says Harpreet.
Their passion for history is not only evident through Firangi Mahal, but every collection they’ve worked on, including designing costumes for the historical drama Padmaavat and the period drama web series Heeramandi. Both Harpreet and Rimple expectedly have a penchant also for antiques and have collected thousands of archival souvenirs and vintage textiles.
While having these references comes in handy, designing period drama costumes or even bridal couture comes with its share of challenges. “The dearth of direct references such as textiles preserved in museums or detailed garment records in books and photographs, makes it challenging to understand the fashion of different historical periods.
Much of what has survived is scattered across various archives, and is often unorganised and difficult to access,” says Rimple, adding, “Thankfully, that never discouraged us. Instead, the limited material ignited our imagination, allowing us to craft our own interpretations.”
A lot of inspiration also comes from their shared love for travel, cinema and building archives. “We are from Punjab and the anecdotes we grew up listening to have also shaped our aesthetic sensibilities. We heard our grandmothers and relatives talk about the experiences in Gujranwala, undivided India; we saw them dressed in these rich shawls, saris and heritage jewellery pieces. Each of these seemingly disjointed memories have cumulatively helped shape our minds,” says Rimple. It’s from these fragments of the past that they are shaping a sartorial legacy for the future.
Availability: Rimpleandharpreet.com