Shivan & Narresh’s latest collection, 'Couture Series V', is deeply inspired by the visual language of Henri Matisse, and celebrates form, fluidity, and fearless colour. The edit draws deeply from the poetic visual language of Matisse, the French printmaker, including the master’s Fauvist iconography, late cut-outs, and expressive palette.
The opulent tapestry of handcrafted couture unfolds through tonal vignettes in evocative shades of cerulean blue, carmine red, onyx black, and mélange green. The collection unveiled at The Upper HSE by Tivoli, Sultanpur, Delhi, features graphic, intricately embroidered motifs —each one drawing from the bold abstraction of Matisse’s cut-outs.
The range boasts of intricate embroideries with hand-sewn glass beads, metallic threads, dimensional paillettes, and Swarovski crystals in layers of silk organza, soft tulle, delicate lace, and hand-twisted threadwork. There’s also the brand’s signature knitted textiles in silk and lurex yarns, besides the introduction of the Saf lattice—the brand’s iconic emblem, hand-cut from fine leather and meticulously connected with delicate beaded chains. The unique knotted mesh of crystal ropes forms fluid, light-catching structures that blur the line between jewellery and garment. Both techniques echo the spirit of Matisse’s cut-outs—layered, graphic, and powerfully tactile. For the first time, the Series introduces couture prints—original artworks created in-house, paying homage to Matisse and echoing the joy and spontaneity of the artist’s paper découpages—his celebrated “painting with scissors".
The silhouettes include fluid drapes, column gowns, sculptural dresses, embellished jumpsuits, sharply tailored co-ord sets, jackets and sheer kurtas and lehengas embroidered in lush layers, besides statement swimwear.
Founder and head designer Shivan Bhatiya and founder and creative director Narresh Kukreja take us through the beautiful creations.
Matisse is the inspiration behind this gorgeous edit. Have you always been amazed by the painter's work and life?
Shivan Bhatiya (SB): Matisse has been a long-time favourite for both of us—so much so that nearly a decade ago, I named my indie dog after him. He's black, and the name was apt since black is a colour often used by Matisse. I love how Matisse's bold use of the colour black formed the backbone of his work and helped bring other shades to life.
Narresh Kukreja (NK): It was during a visit to the Tate Modern in London in 2023 that we saw 'The Snail', one of Matisse’s most iconic pieces. We’ve always adored his art and we wondered why we never drew from his art while designing. That conversation became the seed of inspiration for 'Couture Series V'.
The vibrant edit echoes Matisse's vivid palette. Please trace how you turned the paintings into inspirations for sartorial creations.
NK: Matisse’s body of work is vast, so we intuitively dissected his paintings into distinct colour fields. We curated a selection based on dominant tones—some works were vividly vermillion or red-led, others celebrated intense blues and deep blacks. Many were exuberantly multicoloured, which naturally evolved into one segment of the collection. His frequent use of bold blacks inspired an entire black-dominant chapter in the show, while lavender—an unexpected yet recurring hue—emerged as another striking colour story.
SB: Each of these palettes formed the foundation for different sections within the collection. From there, we interpreted Matisse’s language of form and colour into intricate elements, textures, and embroideries. His work is visually rich, layered with motifs of furniture, interiors, and decorative forms. We used all of that for surface treatments to create bold shapes, saturated hues, and tactile depth, which resonated with Matisse's art.
How different are the designs from your previous presentations?
NK: This is the first time we’ve introduced prints into our couture vocabulary. Until now, our couture presentations have primarily focused on colour and texture, without the use of prints. In this collection, prints serve as a foundational layer, adding a new dimension to the storytelling.
SB: Another departure is our approach to colour. Previously, our palettes have largely been tone-on-tone—working with reds, whites and pinks in more controlled spectrums. This time, we intentionally embraced bold, multi-coloured expression to create a visually immersive experience.
Tell us how swimwear preferences are changing and what's working this year.
NK: Swimwear is no longer restricted to the beach, they are increasingly becoming an integral part of our regular wardrobe. Just look at how women are wearing bodysuits as blouses and pairing them with skirts, trousers, or even under a sari. Many women are wearing it as outerwear and styling it in bold, maximal ways. This will continue to rule this year's fashion scene.
What are the resort wear must-haves?
NK: There’s a significant shift towards anti-fixed and gender-neutral silhouettes within resort wear. Neutral, fluid shapes rather than traditionally defined cuts will rule the roost. Sensuous resort wear will run the show along with the rise of structured silhouettes like boxy shirts, straight-cut trousers, and clean, architectural lines. These trends are redefining the modern resort wardrobe, which is a mix of understated confidence and inclusivity.
As an Indian designer, what's your take on the global labels taking design inspiration from heritage Indian designs?
SB: It's great to see how India continues to serve as a source of inspiration for global designers. While it's a common practice to get inspired by other cultures, it's important to acknowledge that this exchange is a two-way process. Just as we recreate corsets or military jackets keeping Indian aesthetes in mind, designers from the West too take a leaf out of Indian craft culture. This exchange of ideas does not dilute fashion. It enriches and creates a more global, homogeneous style that transcends borders.
What are the emerging design elements in occasion and party wear that you are observing?
NK: Shiny embellishments like crystals will continue to dominate the partywear space. Maximalism has emerged as a defining trend. Be it intricate skeinwork, sequins, vibrant colours, or elaborate bead detailing, party dressing today is all about unapologetic glamour.
What are the other collections you are working on?
SB: Apart from this, we're also working on our upcoming winter collection, the SK& Après-Ski line.
You have set the standard for glamorised swimwear like no other Indian designers. What are the plans for your label?
NK: In fashion, we currently operate across two key segments—couture and our ready-to-wear holiday line—both of which remain central to our brand. As a luxury holiday brand, we’re now extending our aesthetic into the realm of home and lifestyle. We're set to launch our first flagship for SHIVAN & NARRESH Homes at The Chanakya, New Delhi. This marks the beginning of a larger vision—to establish homes as a key category in our evolving universe.