The Magic of Metal
The renaissance of Indian craft and textile has assumed new dimensions, courtesy modern practitioners with a high appetite for experimentation. Hyderabad-based Nolwa Studio (acronym for new old ways), helmed by Rohit Naag, is at the forefront of this movement. Its debut line, The Bidri Collection, reimagines the ancient metal inlay craft of Bidri through contemporary design, experimenting with form, scale and expression.
Traditionally known for its floral and geometric influences, the 600-year-old Persian royal art is characterised by the inlay of pure silver and gold wires. However, its sheen has faded over time, having gone the ‘mass market’ route. Naag’s vision is to restore the lost glory of the traditional craft, infusing it with decadence and the aspirational quality it was originally known for.
In line with this thought process, Nolwa Studio has designed four pieces—Horizon Lamp, Monolith Lamp, Drop Table and the Facet Mirror. There’s another creation—a bar cabinet with parametric architecture—that was unveiled at the India Art Fair 2025 in Delhi.
Setting up his studio didn’t happen overnight, especially with Naag having no prior experience in design. After pursuing engineering and management, and dabbling in jobs in various industries in the US, Europe and Asia, it took some time to realise that design was his calling. “I asked myself, ‘if money wasn’t a criterion, what would you enjoy doing?’ The answer was design,” he confesses.
On returning to India, Naag began his exploration of different crafts in close proximity to Hyderabad. “I went to around 12-14 craft clusters in Andhra Pradesh and Telangana, evaluating the possibilities and limitations for each and finally zeroed in on Bidri,” says Naag. After almost six years of extensive research and development and prototyping with Bidri master artisan MA Rauf and his team, Nolwa Studio launched the collection.
Each piece has been co-developed with the expertise of international designers. For instance, the wall-mounted Horizon Lamp that uses Bidri inlay on a contemporary form has the contribution of UAE designer, researcher and educator Ammar Kalo. “The organic concave surface that forms the foundation for the design was hatched with reflective brass-wire inlay, helping enhance the soft glow emitted by the light source,” says Naag.
There’s also the Facet Mirror, co-created with Arielle Assouline Lichten that balances uniformity of form with tactile variations. Other pieces like the Drop Table and the multi-cuboid construction, The Monolith have inputs from Gunnar Rönsch and Stephen K Molloy, co-founders of Berlin design firm, Fundamental.
Besides the Facet Mirror, other pieces are limited editions. Naag, who is still figuring the tricks of the trade, believes most of the visibility will come from interior designers and architects. “If our work offers more spotlight on the artisan community, we will be happy. It’s a fascinating craft and we are honoured to be a part of it,” Naag smiles.