Vintage watch manual
Hollywood icon Paul Newman’s Rolex Daytona belonged to a man who, for 20 years, kept it over his bath towel hung on a hook every day he entered the pool. He has no idea his watch cost more than a house in LA. Buying one is easy, but how to get the real deal and what to look for is the challenge. Many buyers insist on seeing the paperwork, which matters not that much. Many unscrupulous dealers fake the papers.
The box may belong to another piece. Check for originality, condition, service history and authenticity. Always check the dials. A clean dial beneath even scratched crystal is worth many times the value. Sapphire crystal resists scratches and breakage better. Check whether the watch is a limited edition and how many were sold. Fewer watches means better resale value. Note, details matter. Are the crystals diamond? Of what carat?
Watch Wisdom: Go in for iconic and classic styles whose value will always keep appreciating. If you are contemplating buying that vintage Rolex, snap a picture of its serial number. Rolex keeps a record of the serial numbers of stolen Rolexes. Better be safe than sorry. Hence buy a watch only from a trusted source. Or buy directly from the owners.
The Vintage Watch Buying Guide
● Is the watch signed? The company logo should be visible on the crown, dial, and movement. Replacements of the parts diminish the value of the watch.
● Is the dial fixed? A sellers’ trick is to reapply luminescent substance to the markers to make it more attractive. In fact, it reduces the value.
● Is the case polished? The metal of a watch that has been polished too much and too often, becomes fragile.
● What is its provenance? Look for engravings that given an idea of who used it, or how it was used. A watch with a backstory is pricier than ones without it.
Check for Original Accessories
An ideal situation is that the box, papers, and service records are all there. But getting all of them is a bonus.
● What to look for: Lange & Söhne, Lange 1. Yuri Gagarin’s 1961 Sturmanskie was the first watch in space. Put your money on Strela Chronograph. Hamilton watches have World War 2 cachet. Top buy: Ventura
● What to pay: Seiko and Longines cost between EUR 200 and EUR 1,000. An Omega will cost from EUR 1,000 to EUR 5,000. Rolex and Patek Philippe start at EUR 5,000, and could cost over £50,000 for rare pieces. A beginners budget should be around EUR 2,000 according to vintage watch experts.