It’s been fifty years since France effectively gave up Pondicherry, rechristened Puducherry, to the Union of India by the Treaty of Cession ratified on August 16, 1962. Coinciding with the golden jubilee celebrations of that event is a cookbook called The Pondicherry Kitchen, written by Lourdes Tirouvanziam-Louis. The book brings out the unique culinary heritage of the town, old recipes and foodlore that have been transmitted orally through generations.
What is ‘Pondicherry cuisine’? In the introduction to her book, Lourdes explains that Pondicherrian cuisine is primarily Indian with flavours and tastes inherited from French cooking styles. A glance through the recipes of the dishes in the cookbook reveals mostly Tamilian names. The few French dishes that were adapted to the local tastes are Gigot Daube (lamb dish), Petits Pâtés (minced lamb starter), Mouton Aux Petitis Pois (lamb dish served with bread), Fish Bouillabaisse (fish stew). The book also gives an insight into some typical Franco-south Indian dishes like Tomates Farcies Aux Crevettes (prawn baked dish) and Tomates Farcies (light tomato dish).
Lourdes, who holds a PhD in sociolinguistics and has taught languages at the Lycée Francais of Pondicherry, mentions in the book that cooking is part of the cultural heritage of a country and when the cooking habits of a country or area sink into oblivion, they ought to be saved. And the job does not end with preservation; the younger generation must be led to follow them and put them into practice.
Lourdes had earlier written a book in French on the same topic titled Cuisine Traditionnelle de Pondichery. This time she gives the reader an insight into the socio-economic conditions that prevailed in Pondicherry at different points in history through brief trivia at the beginning of every recipe. Pondicherry has seen the influence of a host of cultures and its food also reflects eclectic borrowings from Indian, Mughal, French, Portugese and Malaysian cooking. Citing the examples of Navratan Korma, Pulao and Assad, Lourdes says, “These recipes have their roots in Mughal cuisine. When adapted to Pondicherrian style, curd was replaced with coconut milk, peanut paste and ghee. Coconut milk and ghee is south Indian while peanut paste is a necessary ingredient in French cooking.”
Unlike a few international and domestic cuisines like Italian, Mediterranean, Oriental, Punjabi and South Indian, why does Pondicherrian cuisine with its exotic influence of different cultures not have a mass following? Lourdes says, “Since Pondicherrian cuisine takes in a lot from so many things, the recipes have mostly been passed on orally from one generation to another within families. The recipes mentioned in the book have been collated from the culinary tradition and old cookbooks of around 180 families in the town. I hope with this book, the popularity quotient of the cuisine will increase.”
Lourdes insists that preparation of these dishes is not too elaborate an undertaking, and thanks to the modern day kitchen appliances, spices and condiments can be preserved for days.
Pondicherrian Gems
Lamb Papillote
INGREDIENTS
● 1 kg boneless lamb, one big piece
● 2 big onions, finely sliced
● 19 garlic cloves, crushed
● 1/4 nutmeg powder
● Salt to taste
● 2 tsp black peppercorns, coarsely ground
● 2 tsp ghee
● 1 cup hot water
Directions
● Chop the meat and add to it the onions and garlic.
● Rub nutmeg, salt and pepper to the cut portion.
● Tightly roll the chopped part of the meat and then roll the rest of the meat around the spiced roll. Make a tight bundle and tie it with thick thread. Refrigerate for 1 hour.
● In a pan, heat the ghee, put in the meat and roast on all sides till golden brown.
● Add hot water and cook till little sauce is left.
● Remove the thread and cut the lamb papillote into thin slices.
● Serve hot with potato purée or French beans sauté.
Mouton Aux Petits Pois
INGREDIENTS
● 1 tbsp ghee
● 1 clove
● 1 small piece cinnamon
● 1/2 bay leaf
● 1 tsp maida
● 2 onions, finely sliced
● 19 garlic cloves, crushed
● 3 tomatoes finely chopped
● 1 kg lamb, cut into small pieces
● 1 cup hot water
● 1/2 kg green peas
● 1 tsp black pepper powder
Directions
● In a pan, heat the ghee, add the clove, cinnamon, bay leaf and maida. Stir fry for a couple of seconds.
● Add the onions and garlic, fry till golden brown.
● Add tomatoes and cook till they are soft.
● Add the meat and fry till it is golden brown.
● Add salt and hot water and cook on low heat till the meat is done. Discard the cloves, cinamon and bay leaf.
● Add the green peas and black pepper powder, and cook till the peas are done.