Its client list reads like a Who’s Who of Mumbai’s elite — socialites, film stars and the city’s corporate creme de la creme, flock to the dimly lit interiors of Hakkasan, every evening, to enjoy a slice of the good life. After all, it is here that London’s famous Michelin-star eatery, by the very same name, first set up its Indian outpost, in June 2011, only to receive rave reviews for its food and décor. In fact, Hakkasan London shot to fame after being the first Chinese restaurant to be awarded a Michelin star. The restaurant stands out instantly with its contemporary chic interiors by Paris-based designers Gilles & Boissier, who have generously used dark oak elements, lattice screens and stunning blue glass across the restaurant.
This 120-cover restaurant (particularly huge by Mumbai standards) even has an uber-intimate Ling Ling lounge, which seats 44. Jeetesh Kaprani, Vice President, Operations at KA Hospitality, responsible for bringing down Hakkasan says it has “a unique combination of glamour and elegance, modern yet ethnic décor, and a nightclub ambience, which offers a superlative food experience. The design elements in our space translate traditional Chinese motifs such as lanterns and screens — Chinoiserie—into a contemporary language".
The restaurant—present in Dubai, Miami, New York, Shanghai and Las Vegas—essentially serves modern Cantonese fare. Here, it’s all about the experience, décor, flavours, music, tableware and, of course, service. Chef Chong Chee Loong, Corporate Chef at Hakkasan describes the menu as “the perfect balance of authentic Chinese flavours with a modern twist. The new, anniversary menu has more vegetarian dishes like the Mock Duck Salad, which has been an instant success.” With an aim to keep up with the changing tastes of India’s fine diners, the vegetarian-heavy menu comes as a pleasant surprise, in a world where international restaurants often find themselves having to question their identity in the face of vegetarianism.
The menu from Hakkasan London has been replicated but not in its entirety. Chef Chong continues, “In addition to Hakkasan’s signature dishes such as the Grilled Chilean Sea Bass with Chinese Honey and PiPa Duck, the Mumbai restaurant will also serve a variety of specially conceived vegetarian options such as Stir Fried Lotus Root and Claypot with Asparagus, Yam Bean, Tofu and Aubergine.”
To celebrate its second anniversary in Mumbai, the restaurant has introduced a Chef’s Special menu which was inspired by Mumbai. The Mock Duck Salad (which interestingly enough is a vegetarian dish), Steamed Indian Salmon in Patong Sauce and Hakka Beancurd with Edamame in Toban sauce are exclusive only to this outlet.
Merely going through the anniversary menu is a veritable treat for the senses. The food that follows is superlative to say the least. A few must-try dishes are Edamame and Truffle Dumpling—an explosion of soft flavours in the mouth, coupled with the most delightful, creamy texture—the Stir Fried ‘Chor Chong’ chicken—a piquant preparation, tempered to perfection with ginger and chilli—and the Spicy Lotus Root with Celery and Black Fungus.
Going beyond the anniversary menu, to experience Chef Chong’s culinary prowess is also a good idea. He does an exquisite Dragonfruit and Mustard Prawn Salad, presented like an objet d’art, which has the warm, comforting creaminess of fruit coupled with the crispiness of fried prawns. Another showstopper was the Spicy Prawns with Almonds and Curry Leaf Sauce, an unusual but successful pairing. The quality of the internationally sourced ingredients is immediately evident.
If you’re seeking an all-out splurge and gastronomic indulgence, you could opt for the Peking Duck with Ossetra Caviar, made only on special order.
In terms of service, Hakkasan effortlessly lives up to international standards on all counts. It was conducted with the finesse and product knowledge expected of a fine dining restaurant, something that is not always consistent in many Indian fine dining establishments. Besides an unusually noisy kitchen and bar—the constant banging of pots and pans from the kitchen and the unnecessary, loud clanking of bar equipment and bottles, seemed to stand out instantly in an otherwise serene setting—Hakkasan excels on all fronts. After having made an impressive entry into India’s food scene, it looks like the eatery has managed to stay consistent in its offerings. With establishments like these, the future can only be bright for fine dining in India.