The average Indian traveller gets shivers down his spine at the very thought of experimenting with food in China. This unwillingness to experiment, however, is unwarranted. In fact, China is a veritable treasure-trove of good food… a gastronomic haven. And a whole new breed of Chinese fine dining restaurants has joined the revolution to make refined Chinese food more appealing and accessible to the international palate. By doing that, busting all myths and stereotypes surrounding authentic Chinese cuisine. And serious diners are not complaining.
One restaurant that seems to have got Shanghai talking with its modern recreation of authentic regional Chinese fare is Yong Yi Ting. Discreetly situated around a courtyard at the Mandarin Oriental Pudong, Yong Yi Ting showcases the local Jiang Nan cuisine.
The first thing that strikes you about Yong Yi Ting is its stunning décor. As you walk past the vintage wooden bar with impressive wine towers in the background, the ceiling, entirely embellished with white lamps, will take your breath away. The restaurant is a beautiful amalgamation of European and Chinese aesthetic codes. Giant painted panels with monochrome dragon motifs are juxtaposed with a gorgeous art installation of iron chains hanging from the ceiling. The traditional Chinese lattice wall panels and screens are seen throughout the restaurant. Besides the main dining area, the restaurant also has eight private dining rooms.
The menu showcases the culinary styles of Shanghai as well as its hinterlands, Jiangsu and Zhejiang. Essentially, Jiang Nan cuisine originates from the southern Yangstze River region and is characterised by subtle aromas, delicate flavours and intricate preparation. At the helm is Chef Tony Lu, a celebrity in Shanghai culinary circles. A Shanghai boy, Lu comes with great experience at a string of upscale Cantonese restaurants, and then rose to international fame by masterminding Shanghai’s first independent Chinese restaurants Fu1039, Fu1088 and Fu1015. At Yong Yi Ting, Chef Lu aims to source fresh seasonal ingredients from the region. He says, “It is an honour to showcase my passion for innovative yet authentic local cuisine. I am looking forward to serving diners with an experience that showcases the finest ingredients and with every element of the meal and service in perfect harmony.”
The meal began with a series of delicate hors d’oeuvres, which were presented like a work of art. What followed was a very light and fragrant double-boiled morel soup with a slice of winter melon and a sprig of bamboo pith, making for an unusual blend of chewy and powdery textures. The small portion of sautéed fresh shrimp was almost devoid of any embellishment, but for a soupcon of vinegar and garlic. The steamed goby fish, which followed was a sure-shot success. The fleshy texture of the goby flavoured with soy and the aroma of lotus leaf were brilliant. The highlight was the small portion of classic Chinese fried rice with tiny bits of Wagyu beef. The crispiness of the rice and the softness of the beef had everyone raving. The dessert was unforgettable. A dollop of sweet plum candy sorbet sat atop a bed of seasonal fruits. All this was washed down with exquisite jasmine tea.
The Tasting Menu
● Combination of appetizers
● Double-boiled morel mushroom soup, bamboo pith and winter melon
● Sautéed lake fresh shrimp
● Steamed marble goby with premium soy in lotus leaf
● Sautéed chicken fillet, shallots and black garlic, with wok fried vegetables
● Fried rice with Wagyu beef and smoked bamboo shoots
● Home-made plum candy sorbet with seasonal fruits