Secrets from a Ceylon kitchen

Suba aluth auwrudh dhak vewa. Puthandu vazhthukal. These are the Sinhalese and Tamil New Year greetings.

For representational purposes

CHENNAI: Suba aluth auwrudh dhak vewa. Puthandu vazhthukal. These are the Sinhalese and Tamil New Year greetings. ‘Aluth Avurudda’ is a festive day in Sri Lanka and I am wondering how I can recreate some elements of it being under the lockdown this year.

The new year marks a new phase in the zodiac calendar with the sun moving from Meena (Pisces) to Mesha (Aries) in April. The day is celebrated by wearing new clothes, lighting lamps, visiting temples (pansalas, kovils) and eating festive food to herald another bountiful year with friends and family.
Taprobane, or serendip as the island was called, is fringed with lazy coconut palms, azure seas, famed for aromatic spices and tea gardens carpeting the hill country. Coconut is sine qua non in Lankan cuisine and curries are sharp or ‘devilled’ and are sure to open up our sinuses.

Ahead of the new year, I share a simple fare from what’s mostly available in our limited larder (rice, coconut, onions, potatoes, spices). Kiribath is the most auspicious dish that is served with plantains (or bananas). A few more accoutrements are included in the menu. Play a lilting baila song during cook off. Bon appétit and to social bonding!

(The author lived in Sri Lanka for 20 years. She now lectures in  and is the chairperson of applied psychology department at The Banyan Academy of Leadership (BALM), Kovalam. Cooking is a way to cope and she loves writing too.)

POL SAMBOL (coconut relish)

Ingredients

• Coconut: 1/2, freshly grated nOnions (sambar onions is ideal) : 6 -8, finely chopped nPepper powder: 1 teaspoon nRed chilli powder: 1 teaspoon nGreen chillies chopped finely: 2 nJuice of a large lemon nSalt to taste

Method
In a bowl, blend all except coconut and lemon. Use your fingers for best results. Mix the remaining ingredients. Serve sambol with Kiribath. My favourite is sambol on hot buttery crusty toast.

YELLOW RICE IN COCONUT MILK

Ingredients

• Rice: 2 cups, washed and drained nGhee or butter: 1 tablespoon nCoconut milk: 3 cups (thick milk extracted from ½ a coconut/ instant powder) nOnions: 1 large, finely sliced nCloves: 4, nCardamom: 2 split nPeppercorn: 8 nTurmeric powder: 1/2 teaspoon nLemon grass or pandan leaf: 3-4 stalks nCurry leaves: a sprig nFried cashews and raisins for garnish: 10-12 each nSalt to taste

Method
Sauté onions and spices in ghee till golden brown. Add rice and continue frying. Pour in coconut milk (enough quantity to cook rice) and salt to taste. Garnish yellow rice with cashews and raisins.

PARIPPU (DAL CURRY)

Ingredients

• Masoor dal: 2 cups nGreen chillies: 2-3 sliced nOnions: 2, finely chopped nCurry leaves: a sprig
• Ceylon cinnamon (preferably): a small stick nSri Lankan curry powder: 1-2 teaspoons nCoconut milk: 2 cups thick extract nCoconut oil: 1 tablespoon nMustard: 1 teaspoon nDry red chilies: 2
• Garlic chopped: 2 cloves nTurmeric powder nSalt to taste nFor curry powder nDry red chillies: 1/2 cup nPeppercorn: 1 -2 teaspoons  nCoriander seeds: 3 tablespoons nCumin seeds: 2 teaspoons
• Fennel seeds: 1 teaspoon nCinnamon: 1 inch nFew curry leaves

Method
Roast all ingredients for the curry powder and dry grind. Open cook dal with turmeric, green chillies, onions, curry powder, cinnamon and salt. Add coconut milk and simmer. Splutter mustard, red chillies in oil and pour over dal. Serve with yellow rice.

KIRIBATH (creamy rice)

Ingredient

• Rice (raw white or red rice): 2 cups nCoconut milk extract (thick and creamy): 2 cups nWater: 3 cups  
• A pinch of salt

Method
Cook rice with water and salt till soft. Stir in the coconut milk; simmer till the mixture is creamy. Let it cool, transfer to a tray (with sides). Smoothen it evenly and cut kiribath into squares. Serve with plantains and jaggery on the side.

DEVILLED POTATOES (ALA THEL DALA)

Ingredients

• Potatoes: 7-8,  boiled, peeled and cut into large firm cubes nOnions: 4, julienned or well sliced
• Coconut oil for frying: about 2 cups nCardamom split: 2 nCloves: 2-3, coarsely powdered nRed chilli flakes: 4 tablespoons nTurmeric powder: 1-2 teaspoons nPepper: 2-3 teaspoons, coarsely powdered nCurry leaves (sprig) and pandan leaves (if available) nSalt to taste

Method
Sprinkle salt and turmeric on potatoes to coat well. Set aside for 15 minutes. Deep fry potatoes to golden brown and drain well. Next, fry sliced onions similarly till brown and drain. In a pan, temper curry leaves, pandan and spices till crisp. Add two teaspoons of chilli flakes, salt, turmeric, pepper, and continue to fry. Add onions. Lastly, toss potatoes and remaining chilli flakes. Avoid mashing potatoes.