The popular, creamy Mexican guacamole experience has been reconstructed with a varied range of replaceable such as peas, edamame, white beans and roasted winter squash by chefs who are short on avocado
Guacamole—the humble dip—has travelled well beyond the Latin American shores and entered homes as far as Africa, India and Sri Lanka. En route, it made friends and transformed from a largely dip-cum-salad-cum-relish into a dish on its own. With the creamy avocado as its mama, mashed in with onion, garlic, tomato, lime juice, salt and pepper, the light mint-coloured guacamole has evolved to seduce diverse palates. But currently avocado is in short supply, thanks to unkind weather. The chefs of the world woke up to the challenge and new avatars are popping up.
According to a recent study by Research and Markets, the consumer base of guacamole is expanding from traditional markets and is expected to reach $1.4 billion by 2024, growing at a CAGR of around 8 percent during 2019-2024. Needless to say, short supply of the fruit drove up the prices till someone came up with a smart way to beat it—mockamole.
It’s faux guacamole, to be precise, made up of other vegetables and fruits with similar textures. Guacophiles were horrified to learn that restaurants were using calabacitas (Mexican squash) for the real thing. One of the first ingredients chefs looked at as stand-ins was the green pea, soon followed by the more exotic edamame, broccoli, calabacitas squash and asparagus. Suddenly anything and everything was up for a ‘mock’.
Throw in some cumin, garlic, lemon, onions, jalapenos and with a whirr of the food processor you are good to go. Chef Rajiv Kumar, Executive Chef, Radisson Blu Resort & Spa, Karjat, says, “We have created guacamoles with green apple and green guavas. Ingredients such as hung curd are used to create the sour taste; and lemon juice and Indian spices give the sweet and sour flavour.” With chefs becoming more adventurous, the diner is the lucky one.
Black beans, roasted tomatoes, peppers, sesame, green apple, feta cheese, kale, and strawberries are finding their way into the guac. Chef Anas Qureshi of Molecule Air Bar, Delhi, is another kitchen maverick who has dared to go beyond the classic guacamole to experiment with other ingredients. His version is the Detox Guacamole. “I have incorporated activated charcoal with avocado, coriander leaves, lime juice, rock salt and sundried tomatoes. A perfect detox solution, this dip is perfect with chips or on toast.”
Last year saw the California avocado industry yielding the smallest crop in a decade due to a severe heatwave. The estimate for production, according to Fresh Fruit Portal, was 48 percent lower than the previous year’s yield. Industry experts believe this shortage will escalate worldwide. While many chefs are finding alternatives, some are transforming the very nature of a guac. Chef Ajay Chamoli of Connaught Club House, Delhi, says, “Guacamole is more than just a dip. Chefs are in experiment mode, using it as dressing, mousse, and even sauce in pastas. I used guac in chaat since it pairs very well with the tangy sauce and sweet yogurt, and enhances the flavour with its creamy texture.” Cuisine-curious India has taken to Taco Bell, nachos and tortilla chips with enthusiasm. Do this test: if the green of the guac served with the salsa is lighter, you can be sure it’s made with peas most likely. But nobody is complaining.
CHEFSPEAK
“Today guacamoles are combined with ingredients such as black beans, roasted tomatoes, peppers, sesame, green apple and feta cheese.” ANAS QURESHI
“I make a guacamole panipuri using guacamole as a filling inside the puris, hence giving a Mexican twist to it.” Rajiv Kumar
“Many chefs are experimenting with guacamole and using it as a spread, dressing, mousse, and even as a sauce in pastas.” AJAY CHAMOLI