Sparkling Potential Uncorked
In a room full of clinking glasses, the only conversation that seemed to swirl was over vintage Sauvignon Blanc with crisp herbaceous notes. Guests didn’t seem to get enough of this Fratelli edition. Cut to a decade back, the wine wouldn’t have got a second sip.
Now, it’s á votre santé all the way. Indian wines have come of age to hold their own in a rackful of imported labels. The elegance of French wine, the youthfulness of Italian makes and the full-bodied finish of Spanish wines are being bottled by domestic winemakers, and aficionados are finishing them to the last drop.
What has changed?
Evolving demography and increased exposure to world cultures have supported this shift. Wine menus at restaurants now have a dedicated section on domestic pride. "The swadeshi feeling has also played its part in rekindling our love towards Indian wine," says sommelier and wine educator Gurjit Singh Barry.
The interest is only soaring. Indian wine consumption touched more than 10 million litres in 2007, according to Indian Law Offices. Nearly 80 percent of this came from metropolitan cities, with Mumbai ranking highest at 39 percent.
Brands like Fratelli have shown what Indian wines are capable of achieving. “We needn’t settle for any less,” says Kapil Sekhri, CEO, Fratelli Wines. The extensive research on soil and microclimate, in addition to minimised use of chemicals in the vineyards, show in its quality. “Fratelli redefined what Indian terroir, Italian wine expertise, and Bordeaux grape varieties are capable of producing when brought together, says Barry.
“The brand introduced Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon blend, which in Italy is used to produce Super Tuscan wines. They gave India its super aspirational wine, J’noon. Innovative marketing paired with great winemaking expertise is at work here.”
Best from our backyard
The Indian wine segment has been maturing. You now have Sangiovese Bianco, acclaimed for its firm tannins and balance, as a Fratelli materpiece. It’s the only brand in India, and one among the five winemakers of the world, that creates a white wine with black grapes such as this one. This kind of originality is now available under an Indian banner.
Another beautiful vin de table is M/S Rose by Fratelli, also the only Indian wine to have struck gold at the London Sommelier Awards 2018. Noi, a young and vibrant sparkling wine made with indigenous Indian grapes, cannot be ignored either. And if you ever need to impress a wine lover, offer them the smoothness of Grover’s La Réserve red, suggests Barry. Soirée Brut Rosé is another Indian marvel, he says.
Affordable yet fancy
The growing middle class has made it possible for more wine brand to exist.
In an environment of un monopolised business, the price is competitive. Today you have fine wines such as Fratelli’s Sangiovese Bianco for Rs 900, Noi for Rs 950, and M/S Rose for Rs 1,050.
Four Seasons Barrique Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon comes at Rs 960 and Charosa Tempranillo Reserve for Rs 1,670… all proving merit and taste. “Because the cultivation of grapes happens locally, the costs can be kept affordable,” says Abhishek Sharma, F&B supervisor, The Claridges Hotels & Resorts, New Delhi.
Matching global standards
Take Fratelli Sette, a true super Indian wine, possibly an alternative to say a mid-level new world wine or an entry-level French or Italian. “Sangiovese, the fabled Italian grape, is the predominant variety in the Sette that has been matured in oak cask and then aged in the bottle for up to 10 years,” says chef-entrepreneur Tarun Sibal.
Falling short
A measly one per cent of the 1,23,000 acres of Indian vineyards is used for wine production. Among other things is poor storage facilities compounded by outdated taxation rules. “There is no true marketing body channelling energies into the promotion of Indian wine,” says Barry.
Road ahead
Systemic investment in the plantation of wine varietals is required, in addition to bettering microbiology and the development of proteins before harvest. Virtual tours and remote tastings can also give it a further impetus. So let’s aim for that.
Paring right
Riesling with curries: The boldness of the wine matches well with the richness of curries
Cabernet Sauvignons with tandoori: The former’s fullness and robustness meets the latter’s smokiness beautifully
Sparkling wine with chaats: The creaminess of chaats combines deliciously with fruity hints of a bubbly
Pinot Noir with biryani and breads: The heady flavours of the wine does exceptionally well by the griminess of rice and cereal
Chenin blanc with Indian desserts: The wine’s floral aromas gently adds to the lightness of sweet dishes