Mathura’s Krishna was fond of curd, but down south, in Udupi, it is among the temporarily banned food items for him. So are vegetables such as beetroot, cauliflower and radish, for their tamasic nature. At the 13th century Krishna Mutt in Karnataka, where the dark-skinned god is worshipped as Bala Krishna, the deity is offered an elaborate meal of 14 delicacies. Earlier, the feast was prepared by members of the native Shivalli Brahmin community according to the principles of Chaturmasya Vrata, a period of austerity observed for four months, starting June.
It is the lord’s own kitchen that has influenced the culinary culture of the region, now known as the Udupi cuisine. It is vegetarian—sattvik to be precise (does not use onion and garlic). “Udupi food draws inspiration from temple cooking. The flavours are marked by their impeccable balance. With a focus on vegetarian preparations and coastal influences, there is also an emphasis on fermentation,” says Udupi-born Hari Nayak, Culinary Director, Sona, New York City. The Michelin-star restaurant is owned by actor Priyanka Chopra Jonas.
The masala dosa, which has been a representative of the south Indian cuisine, especially to the north of the Vindhyas, has its origins in the Udupi cuisine. Then there is the flavourful huli—sambhar made from Mangalore cucumber, pumpkin and a variety of local gourds cooked with lentils and freshly ground spices. The local GI-accorded mattugulla, a light green brinjal variant, is indispensable for the sambhar. “Use of native ingredients drove the cuisine’s popularity,” says Mangaluru-based Shriya Shetty, Chef and Partner at Pupkins Hospitality.
The beginnings of ‘Udupi restaurants’ in Mumbai and Chennai, however, are rooted in tragedy. A massive flood in the region in 1923 forced many locals to move out and start afresh in the neighbouring cities. By the end of the 20th century, renowned chains like MTR, coupled with business acumen of the Shettys and Naiks transformed a religious ritual in a small town into the face of South Indian food.
Besides the flavoursome curries such as pineapple menaskai and huli, and snacks like goli baje (deep-fried balls of batter) and chattambade (lentil fritters), the cuisine also includes kosambari (a lentil salad with raw vegetables like carrot and cucumber), the delectable tondekai cashew upkari (ivy gourd stir fry), and raw jackfruit curry. “I continually seek to create modern interpretations of these dishes. For instance, I make a roasted pumpkin dish accompanied by a tangy pineapple menaskai sauce,” says Nayak.