Cocktail custodians
Bars in Goa are no longer content with just serving the usual cocktails. The drinks have to be innovative and memorable. Bonus points if they make for good Instagram pictures. At Goa’s newest bar, The Lab at Amaraanth, Pankaj Balachandran and his team at Countertop have created a classy space that does just that, marrying local ingredients with modern techniques to create innovative drinks.
Food: It’s a bar so the food is limited to snacky bites, and elaborate cold, and mezze, platters. There’s vada pav, and cheese chilli toast, for those midnight street food cravings. The triple cooked Patatas Bravas are a revelation, with crunchy skin, soft and lightly seasoned insides; they are definitely worth reordering.
Expectedly, the drinks here are classy and highly innovative. The main mixologist is Uttkarsh Anthwal, who will willingly walk you through his playground, giving you the chance to taste his many ferments and infusions.The standout here is Grandmom’s Curry, a cocktail version of a Goan fish curry. It has everything expected in a curry—tomato, coriander, tamarind, ginger, coconut milk—and some tequila making for an aromatic drink.
Another signature is the Red Amaraanth, which uses the local tambdi bhaji in a flavourful drink with pickled onion gin and vermouth. Those seeking mocktails can find a zero-proof version of Grandmom’s Curry, and a coconut and sarsaparilla root refresher.
Service: The aim is to offer personalised service. It does this with aplomb. Anthwal is a good host, and will take you on a personalised and well-curated cocktail journey. Stick around for his stories.
Décor: The Lab is an ideal date place, with soft lights, low but plush seating (for 20 people). The focus, expectedly, is the bar which is shadowed by an elaborate light piece. Despite the glass windows, the space offers privacy.
Price: A space this classy comes with a price. An evening for two, with food and drink, would cost Rs 5,000 (including taxes).
Address: The Lab at Amaraanth, 741/B, 2nd Fatrade, Varca, Goa
