Deliciously vintage
Step into the vibrant world of heirloom tomatoes, where each fruit carries a story as rich as its flavours. Rooted in tradition, farmers select the juiciest, sweetest, and most colourful tomatoes each season, harvesting and saving their seeds to plant anew when the warmth of spring arrives. These valued varieties, evoke a sense of nostalgia for culinary traditions long cherished. As the global food scene embraces a renaissance of authenticity, they reclaim their rightful place at the centre of our plates.
From rustic farms to gourmet kitchens, these vibrant gems infuse every dish with timeless flavour. Unlike the uniform hybrids designed for durability, heirloom varieties showcase an impressive range of flavours, colours and textures. “I like using these tomatoes because they taste like what a tomato should taste like. The different colours have a variety of textures and flavour,” says Gareth Mullins, Executive Chef at the Anantara Marker in Dublin.
These prized seeds, passed down through generations, yield fruits like the rich Brandywines and bi-coloured Gold Medals, distinct from hybrid varieties. “The joy of making an heirloom tomato salad lies in its simplicity and celebrates the robust flavours,” adds Simran Singh Thapar, Executive Chef at The Leela Palace Bengaluru.
Heirloom tomatoes signify an abundant time of the year whereby new ingredients become available to chefs. “Ripe tomatoes have a very broad appeal and evoke fond memories of summer. Heirloom tomatoes take that appeal to another level as the colour palette is visually attractive.
We have a dish on the menu featuring a selection of heirloom tomatoes grown on the Isle of Wight, a sorbet made from ripe plum tomatoes and a chilled gazpacho made from orange heirloom tomatoes,” shares Executive Chef Shay Cooper, The Lanesborough London.
What’s the seasonal joy of savouring heirloom tomatoes? “My approach to ingredients like this is always to keep it simple, and let the ingredient take centrestage. The tomatoes in Ireland are tarter in flavour and have their place on the culinary stage. To pair them with some Toonsbridge mozzarella, olive oil and some apple balsamic vinegar is a thing of pure joy and beauty,” adds Mullins. Much like the tomatoes.
Heirloom Tomato Gazpacho
Ingredients
● Orange variety heirloom tomatoes: 500gm
● Honey: 50ml
● Grape seed oil: 100ml
● Salt: 5gm
Method
● Place tomatoes on a tray with salt, cover with tinfoil cook in a low temperature oven(85c) for 1 1/2 hours until they have started to break down slightly
● Place in a blender with rest of ingredients and blend until very smooth
● Pass through a fine sieve, chill and serve
—By Chef Shay Cooper