Blessed with verdant meadows, gushing streams and cascading waterfalls, the saucer shaped valley of Pachmarhi is a beautiful hill station situated in the Satpura Mountain Range in Madhya Pradesh and is popularly called the ‘Queen of Satpura’. We began a long drive of 210 km from Bhopal to the hill resort, Pachmarhi through the forests of the Satpura Tiger Reserve.
The road to Pachmarhi is very well maintained and offers an enjoyable drive. Unlike ghat roads to other hill stations, this one has sparse traffic, so one has the time to take in the splendid panoramic views of densely forested hills shortly after crossing the low bridge over Denwa River.
The mercury fell faster than the sun.
Colours around us changed from grey to green and we knew Satpura forests were approaching fast. Pachmarhi was not far.
By the time we reached our hotel in Pachmarhi, it was close to dusk. We lodged in a resort run by the MP tourism department. The room was spacious and clean with plenty of light and fresh air, had ample storage space, essential furniture and a large attached bathroom. The hotel is located in a nonresidential area and owing to the darkness all that we could see in any direction were trees intermittently dotted by a few concrete structures. Every place we had been to were completely in sync with the five elements of nature.
Though the “picnic” season is October- December, a visit during monsoon too is fine though not preferable. Dotted with lush green trees, forests, hills, falls, streams, “grass rooted grounds” Pachmarhi vibrates with a rhythm that no other place has.
All quiet and scenic hotels in Pachmarhi are located in the Cantonment area. The credit for keeping this place tranquil goes to the judiciary, which at the behest of the Army, has banned not only modern constructions but also land sale to outsiders.
The cave temples of Lord Shiva, Jata Shankar and Mahadeo are worth a visit. Small shops en route dispense local handicrafts, trinkets and freshly sourced forest honey.
One thing which is a bit disturbing though is the fact that no telecom network other than BSNL works. It is due to the government’s policy of preserving natural resources and climate at hill stations. But no worries, there are ample number of PCOs available.
It would not be wrong to say that Pachmarhi has a lot to offer, one cannot write about it in one article, may be one needs a series on it. Nevertheless, nature is something that delights everyone.
One can forget everything in the lap of nature. Our country has plenty to offer, but Pachmarhi is one of the loveliest.
PLACES TO VISIT
Chhota Mahadev
Chhota Mahadev is a cave situated at at a distance of 10 km from Pachmari. This is considered a holy place and is surrounded by rocks overlooking a stream and a spring. The water from the spring plunges down as a steep waterfall. Mythology has it that Lord Shiva was being chased by the demon Bhasmasur, he took refuge at various places in the Satpura mountains.
Jata Shankar Cave
One has to trek down quite a lot to reach this cave. The route is dotted with amazing rock formations. We saw naturally formed profiles of Ganapati, Hanuman, a lion, a hanging rock and strangely, the parapet of the entrance to the main cave looks like the hood of a Cobra. There are two spring-fed ponds in the vicinity of the caves, one being a cold water spring and the other a hot water spring. The water dripping over Jatashankar Shiva lingam is the starting point for Jambu Dwip stream. Where there is Shiva, can River Ganga be far behind?.
Pandava Caves
Five rock cut caves comprise the Pandava Caves in which the Pandavas are believed to have taken shelter during their exile.
These five caves are located on a sandstone hillock. The Pandava Caves housed Buddhist monks in the first century. The biggest and most ventilated cave is named ‘Draupadi Kuti’ and the darkest is called ‘Bhim Kothari’.
DHUPGARH
Dhupgarh is the highest point in the Satpura range at an altitude of 4,429 ft with beautiful views of the rising and setting sun, valleys and ravines. Dhupgarh is a favourite spot for picnickers.
TIPS
Do not undertake the trip during Shivaratri, Nagpanchami and monsoon. Take sports shoes, pain killers and sprays. Always carry something to munch and drink (do not litter the place and beware of monkeys).