Nancy Sinatra crooning Strawberries, cherries and an angel’s kiss in spring, My summer wine is really made from all these things… can be condensed into one word—Napa Valley. Clear blue skies, warm sunshine strum through with dreamy breezes and miles and miles of rolling hills tattooed by striped patterns of vineyards stretching as far as the eye can see define America’s wine country. At each twist and turn the road takes a chiaroscuro of the sun and shade dapple the green hills. Somewhere along the way, a logwood board declares you’ve arrived in Bacchus’ haven, “Welcome to this world-famous wine growing region, Napa Valley”; with the postscript “...and the wine is bottled poetry.”
Napa spells old world charm and luxury, all centered languorously around tasting some of the best wines of the world. It is also considered one of the most romantic getaways with its perfect weather, breathtaking scenery, cozy wining and dining experiences, Victorian-styled resorts and B&Bs, vineyard walks and lavish spas. No wonder Napa scores high as a honeymooning destination. Even as far back as in 1880, Robert Louis Stevenson chose it as the destination for his honeymoon which stretched on for a year, living in a small cabin writing The Silverado Squatters.
Located in Napa County, north of San Pablo Bay in California, the only way to get to the Valley is by driving the last leg of the 50-60 miles from Sacramento, Oakland or San Francisco airports. It is a favourite weekend getaway for San Franciscans wanting to escape the cold fog that envelops the city.
The life or agricultural landscape in Napa seems changed little since the last century or so, except the luxury holiday options. But it primarily grows only wine now. Fading maple leaves and hills covered with bright yellow mustard fields resemble Yash Raj movie locales. Oenophiles consider Napa wines on par with the best French wines, with wineries like Chateau Montelena winning the ‘Judgement of Paris’ way back in the 1970s.
In 1847, early settlers founded the Town of Napa in what was Native American land, setting up the first vineyards in America. John Patchett opened the first commercial winery in the US in 1859. The fertile cash crop growing land attracted entrepreneurs, prospectors and mining options for silver and quicksilver. By the end of the 19th century, Napa Valley was thriving with more than 140 wineries, some of which still exist, like the Charles Krug Winery, Schramsberg or Chateau Montelena Winery.
The climate being warm and sunny, the current 400-plus wineries of Napa Valley mostly make red wine versions of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Chardonnay and Zinfandel than white wines. Days in this wine county are spent languidly tasting wine with an accompaniemt of a variety of cheese and entrees. Most wineries list champion wines for tasting and carrying back home.
Napa’s wineries are spread mostly over Calistoga and St Helena, built like European castles and mansions with lavish manicured gardens. The wine-tasting sessions last all day long in classy tasting rooms, sitting on deeply upholstered couches by fireplaces, high barstools or casual sit-outs under garden canopies.
Wine-tasting lists could be standardised or customised; try just the reds or the whites or a mix of both, or you can stick to personal favourites, recommendations or themes. Swirl the glass of wine, smell the bouquet, take a sip and then either swirl it in the mouth or chew it to get the flavours best. Spitting it out into buckets is advised if one plans to have a long day of tasting sessions, to prevent getting high too fast.
The choice of wineries in Napa Valley is vast; from boutique wineries, large sprawling estates to some old heritage ones. They are about more than just wine; pass the days lazily plucking grapes, picnicking or going on long vineyard trails. Take tours to learn how the wines are made. Some wineries allow you to ‘make your own wine blends’ and carry away bottles of the personalised blends for keeps.
The Robert Mondavi Winery is among the most loved and visited ones in Napa. Here wine is also a cultural experience with not just tasting rooms and varied wine tours, but also musical concerts and events. Oeno-travellers can sip their popular Moscato as they view the winery’s art collection.
Staying at Napa Valley is about the vintage American and Victorian experience, but with all the modern trappings discretely tucked away from sight. There are extravagant resorts as well as old ivy walled European styled Bed & Breakfasts, and both come with personalised service. It’s also an epicurean paradise, with several fine-dining restaurants, bakeries, chocolatiers and cheese shops.
Apart from the wine, Napa Valley’s hot springs and spas are also part of the menu. Calistoga is considered the best spa tourism destination in the US. In its quiet lanes are tucked away Roman spas and others offering mud baths, mineral baths, hot stone treatments and a host of other elaborate spa works. The hot springs are famous, too.Calistoga takes time travellers back a 100-odd years to the days of the California Gold Rush with its Wild West, one horse lane market look. Its old world charm hosts quiet tea houses, bookstores, curio shops, bakeries, bars and niche art galleries. The old train depot has been preserved intact and the carriages have been converted into shops and restaurants.
The 18-mile tour on the Napa Wine Train is considered ‘Napa’s most unique restaurant’, with fine wining and dining on board while one chugs peacably through the picturesque vineyard county. Around spring and fall, the Robert Louis Stevenson State Park is ideal for adventurous excursions to explore more of Napa Valley’s charms with short hikes and trails leading to spectacular views.
Napa Valley by itself can be a combination of vintage leisure and glorious landscapes, sometimes even without imbibing a drop of its world famous wines.