Into every life some rain must fall. As the monsoon makes its rough music in the sky and the earth responds with its green mantle, the trekking trails of the Sahyadri ranges, where Chhatrapati Shivaji fought treacherous Mughals, are invitations for a walk through history. The Sahyadri range (the Deccan Plateau of Maharashtra) precedes the Himalayas by 100 million years, and lies trapped between the equator and Tropic of Cancer. The mountains are dotted with prehistoric caves with paintings and forts that are witnesses to the violent history of the place. The mountainscape, with its great tranquil lakes, rivers and extensive forests, is a virtual paradise for aficionados of trekking, climbing, rappelling, cycling and camping.
Modernity has arrived in these remote ranges too; new roads and village homestays where home-cooked local traditional food give a flavour of the local culture. The first-time trekker should start with easy, effortless trails that take an hour or so and then work the way up to longer, more difficult treks. The difficulty of any trek or walk depends on the hilliness of the terrain and altitude. Most walking trips, tailored for moderately active people, cover gentle terrain at low altitudes, and many have optional shorter routes.
Here are some monsoon treks through the Sahyadri.
Tikona Fort Trek in Kamshet (3,500 ft): Direction: Lonavala-Kamshet. Nearest to: Tikona Peth (Base Village) Approximate time from Mumbai: 2.5 hours. Trekking time: 1.5 hours to get to the top of the fort
A rookie introductory trek, Tikona, as the name suggests, is a triangle-shaped hill. It’s suitable for children eight-year-old and up. From the base village, it is a short and easy walk up to the forest and its ancient temple. From the top towards the west, you can see the Tung fort ringed by the Pavna Lake. To the north are the Lohagad and Visapur forts. The caretaker Sujith, who stays at the base village, can be contacted for food; a trekking guide, he is well versed in local history.
Trek to Peth Fort or Kotligad (3,100 ft): Direction: Karjat. Nearest to: Ambivili (Base Village), From Mumbai: 2 hours. Duration of hike: 2 hours to the top (approx.)
Peth, also known in local parlance as ‘Kotligad’, is in the Karjat region and surrounded by some of the highest peaks in this region. Peth was part of Shivaji’s son Sambhaji’s empire. Aurangazeb’s men captured this fort and the Marathas could not recapture it even after heavy fighting. One hundred and thirty years later, in 1817, Bapurao, a Maratha sardar with Bajirao II, captured the fort. It has a large cave on top, and a staircase carved out of rock from inside the pinnacle takes you to the top. The trek begins from Karjat to Ambivili via Kashele, going on to Peth village, which lies at the foot of the fort. The climb is straightforward. Once on top, you can spot the cave on the right a little ahead. In its centre stands the Bhairoba temple, and five carved pillars support the cave, both dating back to the 13th century. Just outside is an old water cistern. From the top of the fort, the view encompasses the surrounding hill faces like Bheemashankar range, Wandre Khind. Look hard and you see the Mumbai-Pune railroad winding its way and the Matheran region in the west.
The Sagargad Trek (1,357 feet) Direction: Alibaug. Nearest to: Khandala (base village). Travel time from Mumbai: 3.5 hours, Hiking time: 1.5 hours to get to the Siddeshwar temple
A beginners trek, you initially walk up to the Siddeshwar temple. Further up stands the Sagargad Fort which boasts a disused cannon. In the monsoon, the temple sleeps to the sounds of a seasonal waterfall. Local legend speaks of a long tunnel which joins this hill fort and the fort by the sea near Alibaug—but is yet to be discovered.
Peb Fort Trek (1,554 ft): Direction: Neral. Nearest to: Neral (base village). Time taken from Mumbai: 2 hours. Hiking Time: 2.5-3 hours (approx.)
One of the most beautiful one-day treks, little is known about Peb Fort situated near Matheran except the local lore that it assumed its name from the goddess ‘Pebi’, whose temple resides at the base of the fort. In Shivaji’s reign, the towers were used as granaries.
The essential trekking guide
A course in basic FirstAid wouldn’t hurt, but the least you need to know is how to tie a bandage and detect signs of dehydration and heatstroke, and understand the weather conditions of the day.
Gear Up: Your backpack should fit well without ‘hanging’. Choose one with multiple pockets, padded shoulder straps, and a large zip. When properly adjusted, the base should sit on your hips and the top should be at least one hand width below the base of your neck. Wear loose clothes—a roomy T-shirt and trackbottoms, cotton slacks or comfortable trousers. Avoid wearing denim, especially during monsoons, since it gets heavy when it is wet, thus making it difficult for you to walk. Wear synthetic blend socks designed to wick moisture away from the feet, as wet feet is the primary cause of blisters. Footwear designed specifically for trekking is available and they offer better support and traction. Choose a pair half a size larger than your street shoes to allow for some swelling and to accommodate towel socks.
Warning: That little tingle on your foot is a blister in the making. Don’t ignore it: take off your boots and wrap your feet with a light cloth before the tingling evolves into a full-fledged blister.
Necessities: Windcheater jacket, an extra pair of clothes, personal medication if any. Three litres of water is compulsory. A Swiss knife always comes helpful. In monsoons, pack all your things in a zip lock bag.
Avoid carrying electronic gadgets, which require ample batteries. Each pencil cell battery roughly weighs about 50gm and if you plan to carry five extra pairs, that is an additional 500 gm in your backpack. Used batteries are one of the biggest environmental hazards. Carry batteries only for your camera.
Trek advice
• Walk straight. Never sit down to take a break while descending slopes, since getting up and climbing down will be painful.
• When tired, avoid sitting down on the trail. This will only increase tiredness further and make it difficult to start walking again
• Carry water mixed with salt and sugar. Electoral or Glucose will do just as fine.
• Don’t gulp water when you stop for a break; sip it.
• Whenever you feel uneasy, immediately make it a point to tell your trek leader or organiser.
• Keep a small notepad to jot down experiences and trek details.
Most people don’t realise that walking downhill is more tough on the body. First, there is more force on the body as you go downhill, especially with a pack. Second, as you descend, the muscles elongate with the stress of walking uphill.
Initially start climbing stairs without a backpack. As the trek dates near, say a month, train with the pack.
Proper diet and rest should not be forgotten. Finally, trekking should be enjoyed and not thought of as an arduous task. It should not be a race to the destination. The moment you want to get ahead of everyone, in the process you miss the wonderful sights and experiences along the way.