It’s raining as the passengers board the legendary Star Ferry from Kowloon to Hong Kong Central. The skyline lies shrouded in mist as the rain clouds wrap the 1,588-ft tall International Commerce Centre, the tallest building in the country, in its fold. Within minutes, you are in Central or Chung Wan, the heart of Hong Kong and the erstwhile Victoria City of the British.
Hong Kong is a sea of traffic with several old-world charming trams crisscrossing the island. Chugging along in one of them, one can reach the warren of streets where markets jostle for space with temples, where old pharmacies rub shoulders with antique shops, where art and architecture take you into a vintage world, where street food is the very flavour of the country. This is where East meets West as history resides in nooks and alleys, and the names of streets still speak of a bygone era.
Central is an archetypal locality where vestiges of the colonial era still exist. Pottering around Possession Street where the British first landed in the 19th century, one can feel the hustle and bustle as century-old historic stores share space with boutiques and bars.
This is the best place to explore old Hong Kong on a walking tour where you can see remnants of an old country tucked away in these lanes. Walking along the neighbourhoods of Central and Sheung Wan, there are several tiny streets and vibrant markets. The KoShing Street or the Medicine Street is an array of old pharmacies where the ancient traditional Chinese medicine is still the panacea of all ills. Some of these buildings are over 200 years old.
Another beautiful place is Tai Ping Shan. Here you walk through some of the oldest streets, where the Chinese first settled in the 19th century. Bustling temples dot this oldest neighbourhood. You can stop at a red temple called Kwong Fook I Tsz, which was more of a hospital for the old and sick people.
Connecting Central and Sheung Wan is the second oldest road in Hong Kong after Queen’s Road Central built by the British called Hollywood Road. There is no connection to the celluloid stars, for Hollywood as we know came up much later in the United States. This road, however, referred to the holly shrubs that decorated it when it was built. Looking around, you can see an array of old buildings where whispers of a forgotten era can still be heard.
From the Hollywood Road, one can head to the oldest temple in the area, Man Mo Temple, dedicated to the god of literature, Man Tai, and the god of the Martial Arts, Mo Tai. The deities were worshipped by students to succeed in their civil examinations, so that they could get employed. The shrine also includes the Lit Shing Temple and an assembly hall called the Kung So. Apparently a ceremony was held here in olden days where a chicken’s head was cut and yellow paper were burnt as the Gods were asked to settle disputes and decide on the punishment.
It is the street food that gives you the authentic flavour of Hong Kong. Their egg tarts are world famous. Visit Tai Cheong Bakery to try the award-winning tarts along with Chinese donuts and pineapple buns.
From snake soup to tomato noodle soup, some of the hole-in-the-wall eateries have their own annals of history and are thronged by both locals and tourists, and relishing a bowl of soup there is the best way to conclude one’s walking tour. Standing there, you are caught in the vibrant atmosphere as you can feel the real flavour of Hong Kong.
Fact File
How to reach: Hong Kong is well connected to all Indian cities by Cathay Pacific Airlines.
Stay: You can either stay in mainland Hong Kong or in islands like Kowloon, which are connected by Star Ferries.
What to do: There are several walking tours—both cultural and cuisine—that take you into the heart of the country that includes tours.