Those who go to Goa go two ways —to the south as they have been there before or the north because they haven’t been to the south. Most of you will understandably be in love with the south for its pristine beaches. But the heritage that abounds in the north will make you realise that you were swearing by the south a little too early, unfairly.
The north is a great place too—abounding with atmospheric cathedrals, candy-coloured little houses with curved stairways leading to porticos, hardworking fisherfolk, shops selling feni in funky bottles manned by chirpy ladies in floral dresses, great eateries with live music and some fabulous forts. The region itself is cupped by the Arabian Sea and the Mandovi river. Admittedly what North Goa lacks are clean, secluded beaches.
One of the most enduring forts from colonial military history is here—the Fort Aguada. Referred to as the ‘Dil Chahta Hai Fort’ in some pop travel literature, it is neither grand like Amber or Alwar forts nor rending like Ater; just a no-nonsense structure, the way it was supposed to be. Built in 1612 (a signboard on site though mentions 1606) along an estuary of the Mandovi, this remains the only un-invaded fort during the 450 years of Portuguese rule in Goa. The walls, five-metre high and 1.3-metre wide, are vertically sloping which serve to deflect cannons and gunshots. They are filled with rubble which further reinforces them. The fort derives its name from ‘agua’ (water) as there were several freshwater wells in the area which supplied water to passing ships. Within the vicinity are its original lighthouse built in 1864 as well as its more modern replacement from 1976.
A leafy road winds all the way down to the base of the fort flanking the sea. Here is a low-lying white gulag-like structure hugging the foot of the hill, which used to be the biggest prison in Goa. It is slated to re-open next year as a museum dedicated to the state’s culture, art, and its role in the national freedom struggle. The Sinquerim Fort is an extension of the Aguada Fort and is next to a deluxe property. Its main structure is a bastion that juts out into the sea and looks like a gigantic keyhole from the sky; ships used to anchor on both sides of this fort. Another sun-kissed structure in the area was the St. Lawrence Church, saint of the sailors. This was apparently built by the Portuguese, nearby Aguada Fort to prevent enemy fire from close quarters. May the Almighty take the bullet, one could imagine the commander instructing the architect.
Further south is the red laterite Chapora Fort. One has to pass through the most commercialised stretches of Calangute and Baga, Anjuna and Vagator to reach this early 17th-century Portuguese bastion built atop a Muslim structure. Sporraned tourists in selfie-spree dot the rest of the area. >From the top, Vagator and Anjuna look like tent cities.
Ten kilometres east of Panaji, Goa capital, is Old Goa or Velha Goa, a heritage offensive where one historic building segues into another. The regal church and convent of St. Francis of Assisi is ensconced within lush green acreages here. The only grander one that will come to mind is the Sistine. The church was first established as a small chapel by eight Franciscan friars in 1517. There are two octagonal towers on both sides of the three-tiered structure. The convent next to the church houses the Archaeological Survey of India museum with sculptures, paintings and artefacts chronicling the state’s history.
Se Cathedral, Bom Jesus Basilica, Santa Monica Nunnery are the other important monuments. If you are looking for a quiet getaway from the religious buzz, hop into the Chapel of St. Catherine. This little place was built in 1510 to commemorate the entry of General Alfonso de Albuquerque into the city. For more recent histories, there is the O’Coqueiro hotel in Alto Porvorim from where serial ‘bikini killer’ Charles Sobhraj was apprehended in 1986. Hotel lore has it that he was so immersed in their famous chicken cafreal that he didn’t see the posse closing in till Inspector Zende slid into the seat saying ‘hello Charles'.
Fact File
Attractions: Se Cathedral, Santa Monica Nunnery, Calangute Beach, Baga Beach, Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary
Best time to visit: November-March