Travellers without borders
The Northeast of India, and its neighbour Myanmar aka Burma is knitted with secret forest routes and sprawling grasslands. Borders did not exist until British imperials tired from war left drawing borders as casually as a kindergarten child would scrawl with a crayon. Champhai, nearly 200 km from Aizawl—Mizoram’s capital—from where Myanmar is a peek away is where borders become meaningless. Perhaps the reason why in spite of the strife and guerilla violence in the NE, Mizoram is ranked the happiest state in India. Its serenity and height—1,678 mt above sea level—encouragers visitors to take a pause.
Champhai is where border tourism thrives. As per the recent Indo-Myanmar Free Movement Regime agreement, tourists from India and Myanmar are allowed to cross over the border and move around in either country for up to 16 km without visa or passport. Zokhawthar, the border area on the Indian side, is always buzzing with activity. A police check post and a bridge with a ‘Welcome to Myanmar’ sign are all that tell you that the land across is Myanmar and not India. The Tyao River gurgles under a bridge on which locals sell their wares and natural produce, which people passing by stop for last-minute purchases.
Every tourist visiting Champhai makes it a point to go across to Myanmar; a stroll as easy as visiting a nearby hamlet. The nearest tourist hotspot across the Myanmar border is the heart shaped Rih Dil Lake, which is imbued with legends. For the Chin tribes of the region, the lake is a passageway to heaven through which all souls must pass after death. A Mizo legend says it is the soul of a girl named Ri-Dhin who became a pool of water and found a place after travelling around the land. Surrounded by serene fields and breathtaking mountain views, the lake is a timeless reminder of travel seen from a vantage point above. A perfect Instagrammable destination, the Rih Dil Lake is a treasure of Myanmar’s complicated folk heritage. Commuting around the border area is easy and affordable thanks to bikes for hire that come with a rider: you’ve to hire a rider. Large groups can book cabs.
When in Myanmar, shop till you drop. Though the local currency is Kyat, most shopkeepers accept Indian rupees. Mizoram is a dry state, but the advantage of an invisible border is a high for tipplers because many international and local Myanmar alcohol brands are readily available in bars populating the border area. The immensely popular Korean noodles, energy drinks, Burmese cheroots and pickled tuna are on any shopping list. Of course, there are the mandatory but quaint shops selling tea, coffee and snacks where one lazes around and watches life pass by. Though language can be a little of a challenge, there is always someone who understands English or Hindi, and is ready to act as a translator.
Tourists are slowly discovering Champhai, especially after a wine festival, The Grape Escape, was held at the Hnahlan Winery last year. Reportedly over 1,500 farmers work in the vineyards, and the winery has produced 4.3 lakh litre of wine in the last five years. The intoxicating exotica of Champhai makes it timeless and borderless.