A tale between two countries
One of the oldest cities in Scandinavia and home to the world’s oldest amusement park, Copenhagen has a plethora of adventures for the discerning traveller. But there lies a hidden gem: the charming islet of Hven, a secret oasis waiting to enchant intrepid explorers. Once part of Denmark, in 1658, Sweden nabbed Hven, renaming it Ven. Today, this slice of tranquillity serves as a crossroads of Danish and Swedish history, floating in the serene waters of the Oresund Channel.
Set sail from Copenhagen harbour close to Nyhavn. You voyage for an hour-and-a-half before setting foot on Swedish soil. On reaching Bäckviken harbour, a brief uphill stroll leads to the island’s only bicycle rental shop that bustles with activity throughout the summer season. The striking display of over 1,200 yellow-framed bicycles neatly lined up stands out as one of the first sights that capture the attention. Opt for a novel thrill and rent a tandem bike, embarking on a journey hugging the coastline. Pedalling past golden canola fields, quaint cottages, and verdant trails, revel in this shared adventure through Hven’s charming landscapes. Choosing the eastward path leads through lush countryside, passing fields, farmhouses, horses, and pheasants.
Biking past steep cliffs with majestic sea views, you reach The Tycho Brahe Museum, situated at the precise midpoint on the island of Ven (Hven), encapsulating the legacy of renowned astronomer Tycho Brahe. Despite being part of modern Sweden, Ven maintains strong ties to Denmark as Brahe’s former property granted by King Frederik II in 1576. Preferring seclusion in 1566, Brahe retreated to Hven, delving into scientific pursuits away from societal engagements, leaving a lasting imprint on the island’s cultural heritage. Unveil the digital age’s allure at the museum with a multimedia exhibit within the remnants of the subterranean observatory. Discreetly situated across from the main museum behind a facade reminiscent of a WWII bunker, this immersive experience captivates visitors with classical music, celestial light displays and evocative narrations.
Amid quaint villages and historic sites like Sankt Ibb Church, you can share a leisurely exploration. Journeying along this vibrant path, you are greeted by rows of houses adorned in an array of green, blue and yellow hues, adding a burst of colour to the landscape. Arriving near the sea, the sight of multi-hued boats and cosy outdoor cafes enhances the island’s lively charm. Meander around, pause for a coffee before pedalling off towards the Spirit of Hven distillery, marvelling at breathtaking views and fields of durum wheat. You may stumble on a serene pond enveloped by trees, a scene so captivating it prompts comparisons to a heavenly abode.
As the time to depart draws near, a quick detour to the distillery is a must. Savouring a gin and tonic—rich with juniper and citrusy undertones—indulge in the island’s spirited delights. As you reluctantly bid farewell and head back to the boat, a final treat of luscious ice cream awaits, a perfect end to the day. Witnessing the boat fill with contented souls, the traveller reflects on the simple pleasures that make the world brighter, thankful for a day well spent.