Holding fort in the happiest country
With its lofty five-storeyed central tower, Haa Dzong looms large. Built in 1895, Wangchuck Lo Dzong, as it is formally known, was rebuilt in 1915 after it was destroyed by a fire. The whitewashed walls create the perfect backdrop for the intricately designed wooden balconies and colourful artwork. “The Bhutanese word ‘dzong’ translates to ‘fortress’ or ‘castle’,” says guide Tshewang Phunstso. The majestic dzongs serve as the religious, military, administrative, and social centres of their district.
Traditionally built on strategic locations like hilltops or the confluence of rivers to provide natural defence and command views of the surrounding areas, dzong architecture is massive in style: the walls embrace a veritable maze—courtyards, temples, corridors, offices, classrooms, and accommodation for monks. Bhutanese dzong architecture reached its apogee in the 17th century under Ngawang Namgyal, the 1st Zhabdrung Rinpoche, who is said to have relied on visions and omens to site each of the dzongs. In 1629, he built the Simtokha Dzong, the oldest surviving dzong in Bhutan.
Today, the remote Himalayan kingdom has 20 dzongs, each different and yet similar. The distinctive architectural elements—soaring central towers, large watchtowers, whitewashed fortified walls, and elaborate woodwork—typify Bhutanese architecture. “The walls, with intricate paintings and murals, depict our country’s rich cultural heritage via the many historical events, stories and legends,” Phunstso says.
Marc Dujardin, in his study, From Living to Propelling Monument, writes: “Contrary to most medieval castles in Europe that are relatively dead monuments and literally ‘empty’ places, Bhutanese (dzongs) are still in use today. The dzong still accommodates the same political, religious and logistic functions it was originally designed for.” Every dzong stands tall as a living monument, representing the past in the present.
The architecture is distinctively traditional: wattle-and-daub construction, rammed earth, stone masonry, and intricate woodwork. Traditionally, no plans were drawn on paper and the dzongs, with massive sloping walls, overhanging roofs, high inset windows, and dark bands of colourful painting, seem to be an organic part of the country’s rugged landscape. “The red, white and yellow used in the woodwork stands out against the lush greenery and blue waters,” Phunstso says.
Thimphu, about 110 km from Haa, is home to Tashichho Dzong, the ‘Fortress of the Glorious Religion’, which has been the seat of the Royal Government of Bhutan since the capital moved from Punakha to Thimphu in 1962. “The annual Thimphu Tshechu is held here every September. Locals and tourists gather to witness the music and cultural performances that reveal Bhutan’s many traditions and customs,” Phunstso says.
About 72 km from Thimphu stands one of Bhutan’s most beautiful dzongs. Punakha Dzong, also known as the ‘Palace of Great Happiness’, is situated at the confluence of the Pho Chhu and Mo Chhu, and has been the site of momentous events such as the coronations of kings and the present king’s wedding. The dzong is also the winter residence of the official monk body, the dratshang.
Punakha Dzong has three dochey (courtyards): the first, with a huge white victory chorten and bodhi tree, is used for administrative functions; the second houses the monastic quarters; while the third has the temple. The gorgeous murals, the magnificent gold statues of the Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, and the Zhabdrung, the gold-panelled pillars, and ornate wood carvings painted red, black, and gold are picture perfect.
Built on a steep hillside, Paro Dzong, also known as Rinpung Dzong (Rinpung translates to “heap of jewels”), helped defend the Paro valley from invasions by Tibet numerous times. Comprising the dochey and a five-storeyed utse (central tower), the whitewashed structure sets off the richly carved and painted woodwork. The watchtower above the dzong, Ta Dong, is now the National Museum of Bhutan, and houses a large collection of religious relics, artifacts, traditional artwork, and historical objects.
These dzongs offer a window into Bhutan’s rich history, culture, and religious traditions.