Fort runner
Scampering around a makeshift temple in interior Rajasthan, squirrels share a fort wall with langurs. Jungle babblers raise quite a din. The Ranthambore fort seems to have been taken over by a variety of wild creatures, big and small. Nestled inside the popular Ranthambore National Park, the magnificent structure stands near the city of Sawai Madhopur and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is said to have been constructed by Maharaja Jayanta in the 5th century AD. One of the state’s largest forts, it covers almost seven square kilometers and is perched atop a 700-ft-high hill. The grand walls and corridors, nooks and crannies, which once stood tall and proud are weathered with time, but look carefully and you can see the shadow of the past.
From a vantage point on the fort, the dense dhok tree-laden forest below resembles a carpet in different hues of green. In the distance, the sun’s rays ripple on the Padam Talao, the lotus lake. The former hunting lodge Jogi Mahal, which was once a favourite of the Maharajas of Jaipur, is situated on the banks of the lake. Nadeem, the park naturalist, shares that the resident tigress Riddhi loves to bring her three cubs to the ruins of the Mahal, especially during summers. On the road leading to the fort, or while returning, you could spot a tiger if you are lucky.
To grab a fantastic view, visitors have to climb up a cobblestone path made of hundreds of steps and cross the seven gates or pols—Ganesh Pol, Andheri Pol, Navlakha Pol, Hathi Pol, Satpol, Suraj Pol and Delhi Pol. The tigers may be the main attraction for the park visitors, but the mighty fort holds tremendous significance for locals. The famous Trinetra Ganesh Temple inside the premises attracts millions of devotees during Ganesh Chaturthi. It is the only temple in the world where Lord Ganesh is seen with his entire family, including his two wives Riddhi and Siddhi and two sons Shubh and Labh. “Pilgrims consider the temple auspicious. If there is a wedding in the family, they come here and offer the first wedding invitation to the Lord,” Nadeem says. A Jain temple and a mosque share the premises, along with numerous monuments and ruins including Hammir Palace, Battis Khamba Chhatri, Badal Mahal and Rani Palace.
Tigers yes, but strolling along the ruins of the fort, it is possible to come across several birds, including the Greater Coucal, commonly known as Bharadwaj, the Brahminy Starling, Black-Winged kites and bulbuls.
A Plum-Headed parakeet flits across a tree, drawing attention to its bright and colourful appearance. There’s fauna in abundance as well, including datura, a poisonous plant which features in a Sherlock Holmes story.
If you’re looking for a comfortable stay, the answer could be found in close proximity to the park. The Bookmark Resort Jogi Mahal has 10 luxury villas; and most of the 40 rooms have private plunge pools, surrounded by a sweeping lawn designed like an amphitheatre. The Olympic-sized swimming pool is surrounded by a traditional stepwell design inspired by the legendary stepwells located in parts of Rajasthan and Gujarat. The property arranges for star-gazing sessions, pottery lessons and yoga. Tigers, exotic birds, a unique temple combined with the luxurious stay, makes the Ranthambore fort history-with-room-service.