Up above the world so high
Taking a walk means different things in different places. Insta Reels show off the thrill of climbing creaky ladders along the Mawryngkhang Bamboo Trail in Meghalaya; the real marvel is the ingenious engineering of these walkways crafted from bamboo and cane with nails used sparingly. This community intelligence, rooted in sustainable construction techniques for centuries, assures that these pathways can withstand the relentless rains and floods of Meghalaya, the wettest region in India.
Wahkhen village is the gateway to the trail. GPS maps can reliably guide you along a picturesque two-hour drive from Shillong towards Dawki, with an exit at Pomlum. Along the way, a pit stop at Mylliem presents an array of tempting Khasi breakfast options, including the coveted Doh thad (smoked meat) and Doh snam (blood sausages). Arriving early allows you to savour a steaming cup of Lal cha in the characteristic misty weather that drapes the region.
Friendly conversations over tea are a window to understand the cultural milieu of Wahkhen. The villagers here, without any government assistance, had constructed the entire trail, showcasing their ancestral legacy of bamboo bridge building, which evolved as a survival response to natural calamities. This harmonious balance between the Khasi tribe and nature is an intangible heritage passed down orally through generations via songs, legends and folktales. A scarcity of written records, except perhaps from the recent Forgotten Folklore project—that attempts to curate, digitise and document indigenous stories—heightens the appreciation for the legend behind this trail.
Here it goes. Once upon a time, in the faraway forested hills of the Northeast, stood a stone of unparalleled grandeur—U Mawryngkhang—meaning the ‘King of Stones’, with the ‘U’ symbolising reverence in the Khasi tradition. He reigned supreme. But then, in a rocky ‘meet cute’, he crossed paths with a stone maiden, Kthiang, and fell in love. When U Mawpator, the neighbouring king, caught wind of it, he waged a bloody battle. In that epic clash of stones, U Mawpator lost his life, and U Mawryngkhang lost his left arm but won himself a beautiful bride.
With the tantalising promise that the story’s rocks will reveal themselves on the trek, the stage is set for a three-hour adventure. After a brisk 20-minute walk towards the gushing sounds of the Wahrew River, the first bamboo bridge comes into view. While these structures may seem unsteady, stepping on to them and standing firm above the rushing water instils faith in the power of bamboo.
Beyond the river, the trail narrows and natural paths are interspersed with inclining bamboo ladders. The steady upward climb offers glimpses of the waters below. An hour into the trek, there are clear signs warning travellers that the upcoming stretch of bridge can hold not more than five persons at a time. Ahead lies the vertical Mawkhlieng Cliff with a breathtaking drop to the left. Crossing it entails navigating a two-foot-wide rickety bamboo walkway, with a vertigo-inducing precipice visible through the gaps beneath. Taking cautious steps, with the additional reassurance of leaning against the solid rock wall to the right, assures a safe passage.
Ascending further, climbing ladders, and squeezing beneath rocks, one finally reaches the Mawmoit Viewpoint, unveiling the spectacular sight of the U Mawryngkhang rock standing as a colossal monolith amid sprawling greenery. A rocky ledge offers the perfect perch to take in the boundless expanse of the Rngain valleys.
The bamboo trail gets tougher ahead, leading to another bamboo bridge, this time high up in the rocks. Its strength and symmetry merit admiration. Just around the bend, a scramble up a rocky outcrop unveils a steep ladder, resembling a stairway to heaven. Trust is on trial, with a daring final ascent to the King of Stones, flanked by dizzying drops on either side, until you win by reaching its pinnacle. Standing atop the Mawryngkhang, one can spot the rock of Kthiang behind. Another rock lying in the valley is supposedly the decapitated head of Mawpator, while a mark on Mawryngkhang is rumoured to be the scar from where his hand was broken off.
On the way back, tired limbs can find solace in a revitalising dip in the crystal-clear waters, gentle plunge pools and seasonal waterfalls along the Wahrew River. Back in Wahkhen village, a feast awaits—a sumptuous Khasi thali of homemade Jadoh (rice with slow-cooked pork) and tangy pickled bamboo shoots.
For the cultural enthusiast, Wahkhen has more layers to peel. It is known as Whistling Village where residents whistle a tune to call people, rather than using names. The village is also home to the Siengriti Institute of traditional music. While the Bamboo Trail serves as the gateway to Wahkhen’s heritage, a trip to this village is more than conquering a summit.