Shimmering on the Silk Route
For travelphiles who grew up on a steady diet of Silk Route lore, perhaps the most famous trading route in history evokes the romance of adventure. While Uzbekistan gets the prize for variety, neighbouring Kazakhstan has some little-known destinations, which open the gateway to a bejewelled past. About 688 km southwest of Almaty, the gateway to Kazakhstan and most-favoured choice of travellers to the country, lies the hidden treasure of Shymkent.
On the surface, Shymkent can come across as just another Kazakh town, with a strong Russian ethos in its Soviet-era architecture, myriad conversations and signboards in Russian, and is reflected in dressing and mannerisms. Scratch the surface, and you will unearth Chimkent, as it was formerly known.
A 12th-century trading town, it was originally established as a caravan serai for Sayram, a pivotal trading town 10 km to the east. Chimkent grew to become a massive trading centre in its own right, and doubled as a fortress and military base to protect Sayram.
It was destroyed multiple times by invaders including Genghis Khan, then captured later by Russians, before ultimately gaining independence in 1993. Wandering through the ruins of the citadel and old city, Shym Qala, gives a glimpse into the world it once was. The historical open-air complex has several landmarks, a testament to its bygone stories.
Close to the old city is the iconic Ordabasy Square, adjacent to the Independence Park and Kosher Ata mosque. Three streets converge at this square which has the zher-ana at the centre, a monument built in honour of the three wise men of Kazakhstan whose quotes feature in local lore, the pillar topped with a symbol of Mother Earth.
While exploring the town, cool off with a khymyz on a hot day, a fermented mare milk drink Shymkent was known for even in its trading heydays. While khymyz is a national drink available on stands across Kazakhstan, a drink particular to Shymkent is kvass, a low alcohol, fermented drink that mimics beer in colour and taste.
Graduate from street drinks to a full-fledged meal at Bozjyra, perfect for anyone seeking a deep dive into traditional Central Asian cuisine. Among other dishes, you can sample the classic meat-and-noodles beshbarmakhere, and baursauk, Kazakhstan’s beloved national deep-fried bread. For fine dining, head to Sandyq, where culture meets class.
Entering the restaurant is like going back in time, where you are transported back a few centuries to a grand house with floors covered with the finest carpets, its walls embellished with elaborate tapestries, and ceilings aglow with crystal chandeliers. Here you are welcomed by staff dressed in traditional clothes who take you up a grand staircase to rooms with traditional floor seating.
For a broad view of traditional art, the Altyn Orda gallery is a world that showcases Kazakhstan’s multitude of national handicrafts.
Despite the cold desert that surrounds it, Shymkent stays true to its translation of ‘city in the green grass’, and upholds the title through its many parks.
The biggest surprise is the Dendropark, a green oasis sitting calmly in the middle of Chimkent, with over a thousand varieties of trees and flowering plants, running trails, and walking tracks around a splendid lake. In complete contradiction are the dusty wilds of Otrar, the site of an ancient city 150 km from Shymkent and another gateway that invite history enthusiasts to enter.
Saunter through the brown maze of an impressive township consisting of well-preserved ruins of homes, potters’ workshops, granaries, mosque foundations and more. For a deeper dive, opt for a self-guided audio tour. Finish your Otrar tryst with a stop two km ahead at the 14th-century mausoleum of Arystan Bab, dedicated to the highly revered legendary Sufi mystic.
Most people bypass Otrar to jetset straight to Turkestan, where the Blue Mosque awaits. Though Shymkent is just an hour away from Tashkent on the other side, Turkestan is where you will find a strong resemblance in elements and atmosphere to the sights across the border.
Officially the mausoleum of Turkish poet and Sufi mystic Khoja Ahmed Yasawi, the place of worship is popularly known as the ‘Blue Mosque’ because of its beautifully blue, glazed, ornamental tiles and dome; it is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Outside the historic complex, rugged walkways dissolve into cobblestoned paths, 15th-century structures give way to glitzy gold facades, and upmarket cafes; you transition to a contemporary complex modern day version of a settlement that retains aesthetic touches of the old town, bearing the name ‘Caravan Serai’.
Past meandering canals and high beige walls of the citadel-like township is where the old births the new. Somewhere in the distance though, you catch a glimpse of a blue dome now and then—a glance of a bygone travel trail travelling like a lifeline underneath the patina of modern times, waiting to be unveiled by a seeker resolute enough to look into the mirror of lost time.
Find more information on the region on visit-shymkent.com.
