Sacred waters of the soul

The Maha Kumbh is a microcosm of India united by a singular purpose: to reach and take a dip at the Triveni Sangam—where the Ganga, Yamuna and mythological Saraswati rivers meet
LIVING IN THE MOMENT: The temporary tent city in Prayagraj for the Maha Kumbh
LIVING IN THE MOMENT: The temporary tent city in Prayagraj for the Maha Kumbh
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As the car crawls into Prayagraj, a surge of anticipation fills the air. Pass a few police barricades, and the city comes alive with colour and chaos—hundreds of pilgrims, bags in hand, faces alight with faith, move purposefully toward and from the sprawling Maha Kumbh Mela, one of the largest gatherings in Hinduism that occurs every 12 years. Slowly, you merge into this river of humanity.

The buzz of chants, drums, and temple bells envelop one. “Har Har Gange!” echoes in the air. Sadhus, their bodies smeared with ash, sit in contemplative stillness under makeshift canopies. Nearby, vendors hawk their wares—garlands of marigolds, rudraksha beads, and steaming cups of chai.

At the heart of this cosmic gathering lies the Sangam, where the muddy waters of the Ganga meets the emerald flow of the Yamuna, joined below invisibly by the Saraswati. The sun rises, its golden rays painting the horizon in hues of orange and pink.

But as one steps into the icy waters, a shiver runs through—not just from the cold but from the weight of the moment. The water seems to cleanse more than just the body; it strips away anxieties and doubts. Emerging from the river, people recount feeling lighter, renewed.

But the Kumbh Mela isn’t just a spiritual gathering; it’s a temporary city that springs to life every 12 years. Spanning over 10,000 acres, Mahakumbh Nagar is a marvel of planning and innovation. Navigating the labyrinth of streets, there are roads paved with metallic plates, pontoon bridges connecting different zones, and over 1,000 sanitation facilities testifying to meticulous planning.

The scale of the operation is mammoth: over 30,000 police officers manage the crowds, 2,300 AI-powered cameras monitor the grounds, and 14 railway overbridges ensure seamless connectivity. Yet, amid this modern machinery, the spiritual essence of the Kumbh remains intact.

LIVING IN THE MOMENT: The temporary tent city in Prayagraj for the Maha Kumbh
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EAT, LOVE, PRAY: A devotee seeks blessings from a ash-smeared naga sadhu
EAT, LOVE, PRAY: A devotee seeks blessings from a ash-smeared naga sadhu

Every corner of the Kumbh seems to tell a story. At the akharas, sadhus demonstrate ancient skills. In the evenings, priests in saffron robes raise blazing oil lamps skyward, their chants resonating across the banks of the river. The reflections of the flames dance on the water, creating a hypnotic interplay of light and sound. The nights are equally enchanting. Rows of fairy lights illuminate the tent city, while the sound of bhajans floats through the air.

With millions converging in one place, challenges are inevitable. The authorities often seem to have conceded defeat, as the traffic snarls stretch for miles, testing the patience of even the most devout.

Many elderly pilgrims looked visibly exhausted, struggling to keep up with the crowds. But it is only the unwavering determination of millions of pilgrims—young and old—that sustains the power of faith, fosters a sense of community, and preserves the spiritual essence of the Kumbh, even in the face of overwhelming challenges.

IN LIGHT OF THE TIMES: Devotees perform the evening prayers near Triveni Sangam at the Maha Kumbh
IN LIGHT OF THE TIMES: Devotees perform the evening prayers near Triveni Sangam at the Maha Kumbh
LIVING IN THE MOMENT: The temporary tent city in Prayagraj for the Maha Kumbh
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