Bishnupur, the iconic town that holds centuries of history, weaves many written and unwritten stories through its bustling streets, serene spaces and a close-knit community, making it a repository of heritage with its timeless relationship to terracotta. It exists now as if it were a chapter ripped directly from a novel following a winter tale. We recently went on a trail across the city to get a peek at the many terracotta temples alongside a few other spots that made this destination an offbeat option for you, as winter sets in if you are in West Bengal.
Located within Bankura district, Bishnupur’s history dates back to the times of King Jagat Malla, the nineteenth ruler in the Malla Dynasty. King Jagat’s decision to move his kingdom’s capital to Bishnupur is the subject of many tales and discussions. However, this move prompted the rise of the craft of terracotta, which, in turn, was born out of the lack of stone supply in the region during the time. With the turn of the 17th century, the use of terracotta and stone reached its pinnacle, establishing many structures that we witness even today. While its terracotta structures are a big enough motivation for travellers to visit these breathtaking parts of West Bengal, the Baluchari silk sari also becomes a vital motivation for travellers to flow in.
With each terracotta temple that we visited, we learned more about the tales of Krishna, the Mahabharata, Ramayana and others that were brilliantly crafted onto the walls. These tales even find their way into the saris as motifs. Having travelled on the local electric tuk-tuks, we made our way around the town much more easily, admiring the sight of acres of sal trees amidst which the bright sun would peep at us, while small pukurs (ponds) would depict a thriving green ecosystem around them with some green moss, trees and shrubs. These tuk-tuk rides with their planned and impromptu stops motivated us to list down the following visitor’s guide to the must-see spots for first-time travellers to Bishnupur.
Rashmancha
Located around the central avenues of the town, this is often a natural first stop for visitors. A truncated pyramidal roof sits atop the ‘brick-built square’ structure, which in turn is built on stands on a laterite plinth. On each side, triple-arched facades introduce you to its three corridors. At the centre is a small shrine which, as the information on the site describes, was presumably used for ‘putting up idols from other temples’ during the Ras festival and was built around the seventeenth century.
Madanmohan Temple
The Madanmohan Temple is a serene temple spot that chronicles mythical tales on its walls. Established during the late 17th century, the gorgeous terracotta art on these walls chronicles the Krishna-Leela in addition to scenes from other mythological epics. At the centre is an active shrine for Vishnu.
Gate Of Old Fort
Serving as the entrance into the fortified city, there exists a laterite gatehouse, which was used as a checkpoint for travellers interested in the kingdom. With secret chambers and rooms within the structure, this was a major defence point believed to be built in the late 17th century by Vir Simha, according to the records on-site info, as per the stories narrated by the locals.
Jor Bangla Temple
Also known as Kestaraya, this temple presents a symmetrical roof structure that is built over two dochalas, which are aligned with incredible precision. The temple houses the shrine of Shri Chaitanaya Deva and like many of the other temples, it breathtakingly depicts mythological tales.