Did you know that India has its own lake district? In the Kumaon region of Uttarakhand, nine lakes — five large and four small — shimmer amid evergreen forests, high Himalayan peaks, steep valleys and fast-flowing rivers. Many are steeped in Hindu mythology; others have evolved over time, their shapes and even names altered by shifting waters and encroaching land. Yet together they form a compelling circuit — one that makes for a near-perfect early summer escape. Base yourself in Nainital and set out to explore. With cool mountain air, clear mornings and rhododendrons still lingering in bloom, this is the season when Kumaon feels especially generous.
Nainital: The Classic Hill Retreat
Cradled by wooded slopes and fed by freshwater streams from the upper reaches, Nainital Lake is bordered by three prominent peaks: Naina Peak to the north-west, Tiffin Top to the south-west and snow-capped summits to the north. The vegetation here — conifer forests and pine — gives the landscape its deep green character. Early summer days are ideal for yachting and boating on the lake, followed by leisurely strolls through town, browsing local markets as the sun dips behind the hills.
Bhimtal: Bigger, Quieter, Wilder
Just 22 kilometres away lies Bhimtal, sitting at 1,370 metres and larger than its famous neighbour. Rich in aquatic life, the lake draws migratory birds during winter and retains a sense of calm even as temperatures rise elsewhere in the plains. An island restaurant sits at its centre, offering a charming pause mid-exploration.
The town itself feels smaller and neater, dotted with delightful cafés — perfect for unhurried breakfasts with a mountain view.
Sattal: Seven Lakes, One Ecosystem
Around 25 kilometres from Nainital is Sattal, literally seven lakes: Hanuman, Ram, Sita, Lakshman, Bharat, Garuda and Nal Damyanti.
All freshwater and interconnected, they form a rare and thriving ecosystem. Early summer is a wonderful time to walk the forested trails linking them, listening to birdsong and the gentle ripple of water flowing from one lake to the next.
Naukuchiatal: The Lake of Nine Corners
Small yet striking, Naukuchiatal — the ‘lake of nine corners’ — lies about four kilometres from Bhimtal. Associated in legend with Lord Brahma, it even has a temple dedicated to him. Deep and serene, it is popular for paragliding and birdwatching. On clear early summer days, the lake’s unusual shape is best appreciated from above, whether from a hillside vantage point or mid-air.
Khurpatal: Emerald and Unhurried
About 12 kilometres from Nainital, Khurpatal is an emerald-hued, trowel-shaped lake framed by pine and cedar forests and terraced fields. Less crowded and wonderfully peaceful, it is a haven for fishing, photography and long nature walks. If Nainital feels lively, Khurpatal offers restorative quiet.
Maluatal: Off the Map
Further away, 38 kilometres from Nainital, lies Maluatal (also known as Malwatal). Small, pristine and largely unexplored, it sits near a village of the same name. Its untouched charm and absence of tourist throngs make it particularly appealing for those seeking solitude and an authentic slice of Kumaoni rural life.
Harishtal & Lohakamtal: Worth the Trek
Reaching Harishtal (97 kms) and Lohakamtal (115 kms) requires effort — there are no direct roads and one must trek to the villages that surround them. Harishtal, the larger of the two, is edged by terraced farms climbing the hillside. Their inaccessibility has preserved their pristine, pollution-free character. In early summer, when the days are clear and warm but not oppressive, the trek feels.
Ready reckoner
With the closest railhead at Kathgodam (37 kilometres from Nainital) and the nearest airport at Pantnagar (78 kilometres away), the Kumaon lake district is surprisingly accessible. Yet once you arrive, the bustle of the plains feels far removed. Stay at Brij Atmanya, Bhowali — equidistant from Nainital & Bhimtal.