CHENNAI : While traditional south Indian cuisine is exquisite, the unique delicacies of Thanjavur make it more intriguing. Located in the affluent Cauvery delt, Thanjavur, dubbed the granary of the south, has been known for its music, agriculture, dance, and art since time immemorial. However, the region’s food has started to emerge and gain prominence only recently.
Thanjai food is a mix of traditional Brahmin, Mukkulathor, and Maratha cuisines, imbibing flavours and techniques from these communities that resided in and around the area.
The Maratha dynasty, which ruled this region from 1675 to 1855, greatly influenced the cuisine and led to the birth of Thanjavur Maratha cuisine, combining the best of both worlds. As the popular legend goes, Maratha king Shahji was visited by his relative Shambaji and while cooking the Maharashtrian amiti dish for him, sambhar was born. However, the origin of sambhar is shrouded in mystery there are mentions of it in earlier records. Sambhar is an emotion for us. The Marathas not only retained and fostered the existing culture and food of the region they also permeated the atmosphere with their unique practices.
Raja Serfoji, an erudite scholar, meticulously recorded the Maratha dynasty’s achievements, including the palace heirloom recipes in minute detail in the ancient Modi script. The same is preserved in the Saraswathy Mahal Library. According to the documentation, the palace had multiple kitchens — Maratha (non-vegetarian), Brahminical (vegetarian) Angreji (European), and smaller ones like Thattimahal
for milk.
Thanjavur cuisine utlises freshly-ground spices like chillies, coriander, pepper, coconut, and poppy seeds. The two Lord of the Drinks are panagam (an energy-boosting traditional drink with jaggery, dry ginger, cardamom, and lemon) and vasantha neer (a refreshing drink made with coconut water and mint). Panagam is made by the barrel and distributed to devotees during the ther thiruvizha, and can be had any time of the year.
The less spicy Tam-Brahm cuisine — including the lyer and the Satvik Iyengar cuisine — is all about an authentic, nutritious vegetarian. Thavala adai is a speciality of the region made from rice and lentils. With the best qualities of dosa and vadai (crispy and soft), this shallow-fried dish is heavenly when paired with coconut chutney or rasam.
The ancient day fusion of Maratha and Tamil cuisines resulted in the birth of dishes with names that were typically not Tamil. For example, rasavangi (a thick curry made with brinjal, copra, and channa dal), pitla (made with tamarind, channa dal, and vegetables like bittergourd). The present-day kola urundai, a popular snack, has origins in the Maharashtrian shunkti kebab. Traditionally, it was prepared by roasting and pounding mutton, along with dry coconut and spices. Rolled into a ball, it is then bound by plantain fibre, dipped in ghee, and eventually, flame-roasted. Today, we have adopted a simpler version with the same ingredients.
A special mention has to be kesari mas — a mutton dish made by shredding cooked meat by hand into saffron-like strands, adding spices, and frying it in ghee. The resultant spongy strands are a delicacy and can last for weeks. Also, the word chutney was introduced by the Marathas and has stayed the same way till date. The list of Maratha-inspired and derived dishes is endless and includes vegetarian and non-vegetarian delicacies like kendatta (vegetable and pulses curry), komda pulao (chicken pulao), shakar biranji (sweet pulao), kelyachi bhaji (raw banana fry) and the common Kumbakonam kadappa. Hurit, a powder made from roasted pulses, rice, sesame, and spices, is a flavour bomb and is used to enhance the taste of many dishes.
The Thanjavur cuisine has an array of desserts from all the communities including from iconic dessert asoka halwa. Served during any festive meal, it has a unique nutty flavour from the roasted moong dal and a soft texture from the wheat flour and ghee. Thenga thirrattu pal, puran poli, kasa kasa payasam, surul poli, akkaravadisal, surya kala are some of the sweet delicacies from this region.
Asoka Halwa
Ingredients
Moong dal: 1/2 cup
Wheat flour: 1/2 tbsp
Sugar: 1 cup
Ghee: 1/2 cup
Cashews: 10 broken
Elaichi/ pacha karpooram: A pinch
Method
Roast the dal in 1 tsp of ghee to release its nutty flavour for five minutes. Add 2 cups water and pressure cook till four whistles. Mash two roast cashews in a tsp of ghee.
Roast the wheat flour in a tablespoon of ghee for 5 minutes till flavoursome in low flame, taking care to not change colour. Add the mashed dal to this and cook for a few more minutes.
Add sugar, continue cooking. Add ghee in batches, a drop of orange food colouring, and a flavoring agent. Cook till glossy and till the halwa leaves the sides of the pan.
Garnish with fried cashews.