Ashish Bunker  
Hyderabad

Daring hues & royal tales with Mureed

Designer Ashish Bunker’s latest Keshawa collection ‘Mureed’ blends vibrant colours, royal Rajasthani charm and intricate hand embroidery for men

Shreya Veronica

There’s a certain joy in listening to someone speak about their craft when it’s clear they’ve poured their heart into it. That’s exactly how it feels when designer Ashish Bunker talks about ‘Mureed’, his latest collection under his menswear label, Keshawa. It’s not just another line of clothes; it’s a statement. “For men, there are usually only basic, subtle colours, I wanted to break that and show that men can carry bright colours beautifully,” he says.

The first instalment of ‘Mureed’ has already made its debut, splashing the runway and social media; with unexpected hues for menswear. Think forest green, parrot green, moongiya green, rich purples, fiery oranges, bright reds and even pinks, all crafted in pure silk. Each piece is painstakingly hand embroidered, with zardozi work in gold and silver threads, and mirror embellishments that glimmer with every movement. Shot in a 100-year-old haveli near Jaipur, the campaign tells the poetic tale of two royal princes bound by friendship. “For our latest collection, we’ve blended shayari with the essence of ‘Mureed’, an Urdu word for love and friendship. While our debut was rooted in Rajasthan’s folk spirit, this time we’ve added a soft Parsi and Urdu touch, creating a theme that feels poetic, warm, and steeped in cultural charm,” Ashish shares, adding, “The second part of the collection is all about subtle elegance, with mirror work, dark hues, and a royal cocktail vibe.” The silhouettes include sadri, kurtas, open jodhpuri jackets, all paired with flared pants — a modern twist that balances tradition with a contemporary and modern edge.

“For the first time, I ended up modelling for my own collection, quite by accident. We had models lined up, but one could not make it after his flight was cancelled, so I had to step in. I was already the stylist, designer and organiser, yet suddenly I was in front of the camera as well. Balancing both roles was tricky, as I had stayed behind the lens before, but it turned out to be an exciting and memorable challenge and fun,” he recalls with a laugh.

Balancing this passion with his life as a flight attendant and soon-to-be film actor hasn’t been easy. Time management was his biggest challenge, but with clients from London to Los Angeles embracing the collection and the opening of his Jaipur studio recently, the effort has paid off. And despite the intricate, time-consuming handwork, he has kept prices accessible. “I want everyone to experience real hand embroidery. My prices are subtle compared to other luxury brands,” Ashish expresses.

In the end, Ashish’s message is: “I’ve always been clear about my message; it’s about breaking stereotypes and showing that men can look truly beautiful. They can wear any colour, even bold, pop shades, and carry embroidery just as gracefully. At weddings, I believe grooms should look as gorgeous as brides. That’s the essence of what I want to share.”

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