Fashion

Dressing up history

A new collection pays homage to the timeless tradition of ghararas and shararas

Geetika Sachdev

Indian craft and culture is designer Mayyur Girotra’s calling card. The revelry of Eid takes centrestage in the form of Mahnoor—a collection that reimagines the gharara—under his eponymous label. Historically worn by north Indian royalty, the gharara collection is an ode to that legacy. “We studied everything—from the length of the dupatta to the ghera (perimeter) of the gharara. We went through archival references and have tried to keep these pieces close to the original,” adds Girotra. Mahnoor has pieces adorned in woven chanderi and silk with motifs of delicate florals and intricate vines in gold and silver threads. The grandeur and opulence of the ghararas comes from the liberal use of gota, tille ka kaam, jala hua dabka and zardozi embroideries. Moreover, each piece has a kiran dori for a touch of nostalgia. “While they look traditional, the silhouette and structure is modern,” adds Girotra.

With Mahnoor, Girotra was clear about making a statement steeped in cultural syncretism. “My brand has always celebrated India and its iconic festivals,” he says. Besides fostering community, Girotra loves travel. Journeys influence his design process. It is while he’s discovering (or rediscovering) a city, when inspiration strikes. “I will archive and take multiple pictures, and then put them in my khakhas. I had a trip to Cappadocia in Turkey for three days but stayed back for nine days; there was so much to absorb.”

Mayyur Girotra

Such visionary thinking coupled with a zest for new discoveries makes him stand out among the widening crop of designers in India. Agrees stylist Yashima Babbar, “Girotra’s label stands out for its unparalleled relevance, as each design beautifully captures the essence of warmth and celebration. His innovative approach not only breaks boundaries but also gives the brand its distinct and unique identity.”

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