Health

The Tiny Toxins Affecting Your Skin

Air pollution has an impact not only on heart and lungs, but also on the skin with Transepidermal water loss and "maskne"

Dr Deepali Bhardwaj

The annual pollution problem in North India is no longer just an environmental inconvenience; but a full-scale biological stressor. And the data continues to be sobering. The Air Quality Life Index (AQLI) projected an 8.2-year reduction in life expectancy for Delhi by 2025. It is not merely a statistic, but a reflection of chronic systemic inflammation, particulate-induced oxidative stress, and long-term cardiovascular burden. But beyond this, the pollution also impacts your skin.

The Enhanced Pollution Protocol

Such severe levels of pollution calls for a specific skin care routine or Enhanced Pollution-Protocol Cleanse. Conventional double cleansing is beneficial, but during severe AQI spikes, a modified three-step method can be more effective at removing PM2.5 and PM10 particles. Begin with micellar water, a gentle, no-rinse skincare product that acts as an all-in-one cleanser. It helps lift surface pollutants without friction. Follow up with an oil or balm cleanser to dissolve lipid-soluble particulates, and finally a gentle, low-pH water-based cleanser to ensure complete removal. The evidence is clear: thorough but non-stripping cleansing reduces the inflammatory effects triggered by pollutant residue.

How does pollution impact our skin?

Air pollution increases Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), the natural evaporation of water from the skin's surface. This compromises the stratum corneum or the skin's outermost layer, and heightens inflammatory cytokines in the skin. This eventually makes barrier repair an absolute non-negotiable during this time of year. Using a formulation containing ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids—in the ideal physiological ratio—helps restore structural lipids. Niacinamide (5–10%) is particularly valuable for its anti-inflammatory, barrier-strengthening, and pigment-regulating properties. At night, an occlusive such as petroleum jelly can significantly reduce TEWL and supports overnight recovery.

Given the high oxidative load caused by PM2.5, nitrogen dioxide, and ozone, advanced antioxidant layering is increasingly relevant. A combination of vitamin C, vitamin E, and ferulic acid in the morning provides protection against free radicals and UV-induced damage. Evening antioxidants such as resveratrol (a powerful antioxidant from grapes, berries, and peanuts,) or pycnogenol further support repair pathways. The use of green tea polyphenols throughout the day offers additional ROS (reactive oxygen species) scavenging benefits.

Acne from Air pollution

As masks return during high-pollution days, we are observing a rise in occlusive acne or “maskne.” Applying a thin layer of non-nano zinc oxide or using a breathable silicone barrier in high-friction areas can reduce mechanical irritation and moisture-trapping—two primary contributors to these flare-ups.

But despite best practices, there will be days when pollution overwhelms the skin’s defences. For these situations, a structured acute recovery protocol helps mitigate inflammation: a cold milk compress to soothe and reduce erythema (redness of the skin), a refrigerated centella asiatica (cica) sheet mask to calm reactive skin, and a reparative balm such as La Roche-Posay Cicaplast Baume or Avene Cicalfate. Running a humidifier overnight restores ambient moisture lost to indoor heating systems and reduces further barrier compromise.

Above everything else, check the AQI levels before heading out. An AQI above 300 is a clear, unapologetic signal to limit outdoor exposure. It is no longer a matter of preference but about protecting your skin and overall health. Through evidence-based skincare, mindful behavioural choices, and consistent protective measures, we can, if not end, at least mitigate some of the dermatological impact of the air we are forced to breathe.

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